Empty and Alone
Given the option, in most situations I choose to be alone. Finding Saint’s Cafe nearly empty at 9am on a weekend because Penn State is on break is a gift. It’s the same with my Vespa — I embrace the quiet ride.Continue Reading
Exploring life on a Vespa Scooter and Royal Enfield Himalayan motorcycle.
Given the option, in most situations I choose to be alone. Finding Saint’s Cafe nearly empty at 9am on a weekend because Penn State is on break is a gift. It’s the same with my Vespa — I embrace the quiet ride.Continue Reading
Every dog I’ve owned for the past 25 years has peed on this tree. I’ve walked past it hundreds, if not thousands, of times and it seems unchanged. I can’t say the same myself. Riding to work on another foggy morning the Vespa seems to have a mind of its own — turning and taking me where it will. It’s especially strong with a scooter in fog.
Fog.
It’s not an ideal riding environment. Perhaps dangerous. Definitely presents more risk that any rider, scooter or motorcycle, should consider.
I believe there’s no single right decision regarding riding in fog. Or rain, darkness or wind for that matter. Some riding skill books suggest only riding in warm weather during daylight hours with nothing affecting traction or visibility. That path has the least risk. One could go further and add no rush hour traffic, no heavy traffic, no high speed, no ill cared-for roads. The list of risks is long.
Very long.
I was talking with a friend yesterday who moved from central Pennsylvania to a place north of New York City. He described the difference in riding as one of anxiety producing risk where speed limits are ignored and everyone is in a competition to get ahead. Literally.
Different risk. Different choices.
Standing along the busiest route to work on a foggy morning I realize there are unique aspects of my riding environment that allows me to mitigate my risk more than my friend in New York. For those considering riding in fog here are some things in play for me:
I can’t resist. The visual stories are too strong. My imagination overpowers reason and I find myself in magical realms. When I grow up perhaps it will be different.
There’s fog on the mountains this morning. The clock counts down to a trip to the chiropractor and then a day of script writing. The fog sirens are loud though.
After a week of a sore back, thoughts of retirement and looming deadlines at work, I was ready for some Vespa medicine. Something to slow down the neurons firing in my head. A ride on the scooter to soak up the crazy energy and let me savor the world.
Heading for a cup of tea I looked at my reflection in the window. Smiling, thanks to a little ride into town.
I can hardly invoke the term “urban” or pretend the towns I ride through are a “jungle”. Still, it’s what I encounter. The ribbons of asphalt encountered in the countryside make the jaunts through town seem hectic in comparison. The Vespa was designed with these sorts of places in mind and performs so well that I almost look forward to the times when I’m not looking for groundhogs and deer and instead grow wary of pedestrians and traffic lights. The Vespa medicine is so strong that I seldom find even a slight rise in heart rate amidst the traffic that has others voicing their displeasure with horns and hand signals.
Riding soothes the beast.
God I love riding in the mist, navigating under a murky sky in a thin drizzle. All riders have a description in their head of ideal riding conditions. My own lean toward cold, dark and wet. An unexplained thrill runs through my body that I can only attribute to some internal fantasy at work transforming an ordinary experience on the road into something just short of magical. There’s a romance in the ride that sparks a physical reaction that’s hard to describe.
The effect of the Vespa medicine is enhanced.
Seldom see a motorcycle at the grocery store. Nothing adventurous, heroic or ego-building in collecting supplies. The scooter seems to yield more easily to utilitarian tasks. Or so I believe — it’s something magical about the Vespa and has little to do with the rider. Whatever is at work, a ride to the grocery store can be as thrilling as a ride through the Quehanna Wilderness area.
I’m powerless over my Vespa and my life has become unmanageable. Vespa medicine has unlooked for side effects.
From home to market and back again — living a nursery rhyme on a scooter, an aging man swept up in mechanical magic that propels an ordinary experience into something more, an undeniable craving to be flying along the road with the cares and concerns of life burned away leaving a simple thrill at being alive in the world.
Amazing what a little Vespa medicine can do.
You never know what you might find — evidence of something.
Or more.
Searching for answers to simple questions haunts my imagination. Looking out over the valley I call home I wonder how I’ve come to this moment in my life where I’ve stood on this overlook countless times and never really asked, “Why am I still here?”.
In a world in perpetual transition, with people moving rapidly from place to place, changing jobs, friends and families. I’ve worked for the same employer for 42 years.
I feel as if I’ve become an anachronism living here for so long. Sitting in a cafe during the middle of the afternoon, alone with these thoughts as I write, it comes to me. I’m searching for treasure. Not gold or silver, but rather moments in time where I recognize something that makes me smile, or wonder at the beauty, or just suddenly feel the flame of life leap up from my chest and utter to myself, “Holy shit!”.
I’m sure that’s how it was as I stood looking out over the valley on that cool, beautiful morning.
Winding through the mountains and forests of central Pennsylvania has moved from coincidence to obsession. A thrill persists in the aloneness found in these places with space to think and dream about nothing and everything. Riding the Vespa has opened the doors to a search I was struggling toward for a long time before I started riding.
The scooter has a simple elegance in it’s design and utility as a vehicle to transport a rider physically, and more remarkably, spiritually.
This little machine is a fine companion.
Not everything important is on the road ahead. Or even to the left or right. I try and take time to look up from time to time. On clear days the blue sky is dazzling; so different from the night sky dripping with stars. As a kid I would strain at night to see to the edge of the universe. Now I understand the meaning of eternity.
And then off I go ducking the scooter left and right through tight curves and imagine a barn swallow gliding over fields and pastures.
Kim compared me to one of our dogs this evening — Iggy Pup. He was an American Foxhound who was always searching for treasure — rabbits, deer, food, and myriad attractions only a dog can appreciate. He had little interest in people save for those who fed him and kept his nose to the ground.
I’m like Iggy when I ride. People don’t account for much of my interest. Stopped at the summit of Jacks Mountain I forced myself to walk across the road to say hello to three riders. Two were on large scooters, a Yamaha Majesty and a Suzuki Burgman. The third was riding a Harley Davidson of some kind. Big one. After some brief discussion of the fine weather, where we were riding to and from, and some general chatter about being safe I was drained. Like Iggy I was more interested in the rabbit I hadn’t found yet.
They were all surprised to learn how fast the Vespa scooter could move.
Everyone always is.
Pennsylvania has mountains. Not by Colorado or Alaska standards. But for someone from Illinois or Nebraska, we have mountains. The roads are good and the views open to a wider world. And trees everywhere provide a sense of wilderness that you don’t get motoring along through the agricultural valleys.
The road will end. And I believe there is more afterwards. The night sky tells me that as does the immeasurable complexity I see all around me. I’ve ridden by this sign before but this was the first time I stopped to make a photograph. Not so much to share here but as an acknowledgement of faith — fealty to an intuitive understanding I’ve long avoided.
Searching for treasure perhaps.
Riding south along US522 pushed me into a more rustic area of Pennsylvania, one full of legend and mystery for me. In 1966 America was held spellbound by the kidnapping of 17-year-old Peggy Ann Bradnick which led to the largest manhunt in U.S history at the time. “The mountain man got Peggy Ann!”, the cry of her younger brother as William Hollenbaugh dragged her off into the dense woods as she and her siblings were walking home from the school bus stop. Walter Cronkite provided nightly updates on the search which lasted a week.
I sense bad energy here. I’ve heard stories of serpent handling churches and the Klan. None of it may be true, but it’s in my head.
History.
For as many of these sorts of bridges that are indicated on maps I’ve encountered very few. I’m not doing something right. Don’t want to turn into a bridge chaser but may make some more deliberate efforts to explore these throwbacks to a simpler time.
The trek from Shade Gap to Mifflintown was nearly 40 miles of nothing — farm after farm after farm. The boredom felt during this stretch of the ride could have been the result of an aching shoulder or a growling stomach. The road just stretched on and on…
Stopped to pick up a sandwich for lunch to eat along the road in the shade. Poison ivy kept me dining upright but it was still a fine way to take a meal on the road. Two vehicles passed by during the 45 minutes I was here, a road wandering along the Juniata River headed toward Lewistown, Pennsylvania.
With a couple hours of riding ahead before arriving home I was happy to have the chance to explore a bit more along the road.
And continue searching for treasure.
Riding alone has curative powers for my irritated mind. Destination or route don’t seem to matter as much as being alone with my thoughts. Being alone isn’t as much a desire as it is a need. Without recurring doses of time alone I get:
Basically a pain in the ass.
At some level I probably recognized this personal quality and adjusted my interests and time to satisfy the need to be alone. Walking, hiking, wandering with a camera and now riding. A few miles on the scooter and the world begins to make sense. Or at least my restless thinking begins to calm down.
This morning it was cold when I left the house with the temperature at 41F. Destinations rolled through my head as I pushed the Vespa out of the garage but none fired enough neurons to form a plan. A plan isn’t really necessary when being alone is the goal.
Most of the leaves are down now and we could see snow at any time. The days continue to shorten and already I’ve gone to work and returned home in the dark. This morning I took a short ride just to soak up some sunshine and embrace the day. I’ve been by this place many times but I’ve still not really seen it. When asked if I bore of riding the same paths I always think of the photographer, Josef Sudek, who during the Nazi occupation of Prague spent years photographing in his little studio and window and made a remarkably complex and rich collection of photographs.
There’s much more to see on the roads I travel.
I never saw this hay bale pilgrim all ready for Thanksgiving. Someone spent some time and effort putting it together including the use of hydraulics considering the weight of a round bale of hay.
Lots to see on the road.
A perfect morning. Looking at the scooter in such an idyllic setting it’s hard for me to understand why anyone would oppose someone learning to ride. Even when considering more traffic intensive places the question persists.
I’ve heard a resistant spouse or lover raise the danger question fearing the almost certain death that accompanies riding. It may present as “we have children” or “I had a friend who rode…”. I understand the concern and I’ll be the first to admit that riding is more dangerous than driving a car. But there are other points to consider.
Who is taking the greater risk? A distracted driver, frustrated and in a hurry to beat traffic or a rider focused on the road, relaxed and happy?
And who is a better partner, parent or lover? The angry driver who comes home wound tight or the rider who arrives home with a measure of serenity mixed with pleasure?
I like to think riding has made me a better person. I certainly feel lighter and happier after a ride, even a short one through ordinary places, alone on the road, alone with my thoughts.
At the end of the ride I stopped at the Pump Station Cafe to make a few notes and read a few more pages from Thomas Merton’s Thoughts In Solitude.
Like Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values, it takes some work to understand and for some the Christian perspective can be a problem. Even though Merton was a Trappist monk, his writing kept his religion personal and never felt as if he were preaching. The first book I read by Merton was The Seven Storey Mountain, a fascinating story of Merton’s withdrawal from the world and into a monastic order of silence.
It’s safe to read — I wouldn’t fear abandoning your worldly possessions to become a monk. And besides, if you have a scooter or motorcycle, you don’t really need a monastery.