Scooter in the Sticks

Exploring life on a Vespa Scooter and Royal Enfield Himalayan motorcycle.

The Road

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BMW motorcycle along a road.
Riding a motorcycle on the long road is a gift to relish.

The Long Road

The road is a text, a dense book waiting to be discovered, examined, and evaluated. Riding opens the door to a learning process that promises a rich reward of experience and insight.

At least that’s how I see it.

I know riders who experience none of these things. Their motorcycle or scooter may be a means to invoke an adrenaline rush. Or perhaps an excuse to socialize. Or posture and strut. While I’ve felt the thrill of adrenaline, interacted with others, and have proudly displayed my hi-viz jacket, none of those actions are what motivates me to ride.

The road is a landscape for learning.

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Pokemon Go Alternative

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Vespa GTS and Ducati Hypermotard along a shady roadPastimes and Obsessions

I see people everywhere, in town, on my dog walks and along the road when I’m riding — faces buried in their Smart Phones connected to what I imagine — Pokemon Go.  For those living under a rock, Pokemon Go is a new mobile game based on the classic Pokemon game and uses a variety of technologies and approaches (GPS location and augmented reality to name a couple) to create a game where you have to move and explore to reach your goals.

Move and explore.  Sound like riding a scooter or motorcycle.  I’ve heard a lot of funny comments, criticisms and head shaking disbelief aimed at the Pokemon Go players.  But as I think about it the same is probably going on between non-riders as they look at those ego-driven, risk taking, crazy motorcycle riders.  Scooter riders get a pass because people seem to think they aren’t dangerous and completely safe.

Another form of ignorance but a topic for another day.

I downloaded Pokemon Go last night to see first hand what the fuss was about.  During the setup process they inquire of your age.  I thought I was going to see a message stating I was too old to play the game.

After just a little time with the game I can see why people may get obsessed — there’s an interesting discovery and reward system that happens as you venture through the real world on foot.  I’ve read that for some people the game has revealed to them their towns and communities.

Just like a ride on a scooter or motorcycle.

My friend Paul and I were on a little exploration of our own — a trip to the weekly livestock auction in Belleville, Pennsylvania.

Vespa GTS scooter at the Belleville flea marketAmerican Bazaar

One of the nice things about riding a scooter or motorcycle in central Pennsylvania is always being able to find a place to park.  Even if it’s in the weeds.

The Belleville Livestock Auction is a weekly event at a fixed location where you can buy and sell livestock in the auction barn or take part in the outdoor market where everything from produce to DVDs to guns are sold.  Like the bazaars of the Mideast and Africa, this is an American version.

Father and son at the Belleville Livestock AuctionCulture and Commerce

The wares offered are as varied as the people who come to buy and sell them.  I didn’t see anyone playing Pokemon Go — probably because of the weak to non-existent cell coverage, but there’s plenty of opportunity to walk around and discover.

Amish buggies at Belleville Livestock AuctionAmish Faction

Belleville is in the heart of Amish country so it’s no surprise to see horses and buggies everywhere.  And just as the English scour the market for treasure so do the Amish.  I saw a small cadre of young boys bartering for a haul of fireworks — loot that transcends religion and culture.

Belleville Livestock Auction flea marketThe Crowd

Lots of people gather in the summer heat searching for bargains and necessities.  Paul and I wandered along toward breakfast at Margie’s Restaurant.

Marijuana bagsLive Free or Die

There’s a definite streak of independence in parts of the market.  One vendor had an extensive collection of marijuana sacks for sale along with a host of other symbols outside the mainstream.  Eavesdropping on conversations I thought I would hear some conservative leanings but in terms of the presidential election everything I heard was a similar disgust and dismissal of both candidates.  At least the ones talking out loud.

Vespa and DucatiReedsville Market

A few miles down the road we stopped at another outdoor market with a different collection of wares.  For someone like me who’s hoping to rid his life of stuff these markets offer only deeper sinking into the mud.  Paul found a light he plans to mount on his ’64 Vespa.

American flagFlag and Folksong

I generally shy from crowds and events like these — an intentional move away from the noise and chaos of assemblies of people.  But when I do find myself wandering such places I try and take in the details.  I can’t remember the last time I saw someone playing the accordion.  This fellow was there to entertain.

The ride provided a fair amount of discovery and exploration — something like Pokemon Go but different.  The wandering through the markets provided some exercise too.  If someone doesn’t want to play the game, maybe a scooter or motorcycle would be a fine second choice — a Pokemon Go alternative.

Just go for a ride.

Riding Sets You Free

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It’s as if no one can touch you when you ride…

Vespa GTS scooter on the open roadLure of the Open Road

No matter how many times I see the road reach out into the distance I still get a thrill.  In this place, I experience a sense of freedom.  It keeps me coming back.  On the road no one can touch me.  Cares and concerns melt before the wind and pavement.

I’m certain that riding sets you free.

My friend Paul Ruby and I were going on “a little ride” to breakfast.  Stopping in the eastern end of Penns Valley so Paul could look at an old pickup truck I had a chance to survey the road ahead leading through Woodward and Hairy Johns and on toward Laurelton.

Vespa scooter and Ducati Hypermotard motorcycle in the mountains of PennsylvaniaIn the Mountains

Pennsylvania has mountains.  High places covered by a hardwood forest with threads of roads twisting and turning through a fern, rock and moss paradise.  Riding introduces you to truth.  Sometimes uncomfortable.  When I started riding a Vespa 15 years ago I could still scramble up these rocky hillsides to make a photograph.  Now it’s a careful trek with the knowledge I could easily break a leg or ankle.

Or maybe I just need better boots.

This picture was made just a few miles from where I dropped the scooter.  I was still worried that something bigger might be wrong than the handle bars being out of alignment.

And we hadn’t even had breakfast yet.

Vespa scooter on a sharp curveNo Grids

There are no grids of roads in central Pennsylvania as you climb through the Appalachian Mountains.  If I think about them more than a moment I have trouble imagining how they ever came into existence.  Or how people made their way through this part of the country 200 years ago.

The Vespa was tracking fine through the most severe turns and curves and any concern I had for the alignment issues faded.  The scooter really is at it’s best in this environment.  Just watch out for the loose gravel that seems to be everywhere.

Paul RubyPaul Ruby

Departing the Carriage House Restaurant in Mifflinburg, Paul can’t pass up an empty pack of L&M cigarettes as an opportunity to pose.  I didn’t spend enough time directing him into the proper Euro grimace.  And we really needed a pack of Gauloises cigarettes for the right Ducati feel.

All the photographers I’ve known enjoy being photographed.  Paul is no exception.

Ducati motorcyle and Vespa scooter together on a rural roadCloud Drama

The skies played tricks on the mind the entire ride.  Heavy clouds and darkness followed by bright sun and dazzling colors.  Riding through that constantly changing illumination just makes the whole experience seem surreal.  And I’m an actor in a play bent of flying free.

Riding sets you free.

Ducati and Vespa along the Susquehanna RiverPause Along the Susquehanna River

Surveying the view of the river I notice Paul is tossing his helmet in the air.  I didn’t ask and he didn’t say but I suspect it was his idea to make the picture more interesting.  I just wondered how he would feel if he dropped it and the helmet rolled of the edge to the riverbank below.

He never dropped it after numerous tosses.  Don’t lend him your helmet.

Scooter and motorcycle on the roadRiding Sets You Free

The weather was perfect and the low humidity provided rare summertime views to the horizon.  The ride was great even if breakfast consumed 147 miles.

I’m addicted.  Or at least suffering a compulsion that drives me out the door and onto the road.  I hesitate to count the hours I spend riding.  Or thinking about riding.  If riding sets you free how come I can’t stop?

When I ride in the snow or sub-zero temperatures am I free or in denial?

Right now, I don’t care.  I just want back on the road.

On To Breakfast

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Vespa GTS scooter along rural roadClear Morning Ride

Off early with friend Paul Ruby for a ride on to breakfast.  The night before I curled up with my tattered DeLorme Pennsylvania Atlas & Gazetteer pondering routes to various eating establishments.  Usually I know where I want to go.  Other times I have to explore maps until something surfaces as a destination.

By the time I met Paul this morning I had decided on a little ride to The Dream in Hollidaysburg, Pennsylvania.  The last time I was there was in the 1970s when it was then known as Dave’s Dream.

At 8am the weather was perfect and the Vespa running as well as ever.

Ducati Hypermotard and Vespa GTS scooterDucati and Vespa

There are many routes to Hollidaysburg.  I was hungry, the roads relatively empty so I chose one where we could cruise at 55mph or faster. Paul’s Ducati Hypermotard was up to it so I figured, “What the heck”.

An intentional effort to not stop for photographs quickened the trip to breakfast.  Moving across three counties in a cool morning is a pleasure.

Vespa scooter and Ducati motorcycle at The Dream in Hollidaysburg, PennsylvaniaThe Dream Restaurant

The Dream is fancier that my usual breakfast haunts.  The food was fine but it lacked the rustic character I enjoy in smaller, out of the way establishments.  I don’t suspect it’s a biker hangout or destination for long distance riders.

Paul Ruby and Bob DionisA Vespa Connection

Paul got my father-in-law Bob involved in scooter riding when he sold him his Vespa ET4.  It was a creampuff then and is now under Bob’s watchful eye.

Paul Ruby and Vespa scooterRide and Wait

It’s no secret I prefer riding alone.  Mostly because I want to stop and look around, make photos and live without calling or rule.  That’s easier alone.

Paul waits a lot for me and his Ducati could obviously travel much caster.  Still he waits as I scramble up direct roads for one more picture.

Nature of Friendship

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two men looking at photographic printsPhotography Bonds

My friends Gordon and Paul at Saint’s Cafe looking a photographs — one of the common bonds among us.  Paul I met at a large format photography workshop he was teaching over 20 years ago, and Gordon in the MFA program at the School of Visual Arts at Penn State nearly 10 years later.

I call them both friends.

Photography has driven connections between us and created conversation and travel to serve our collective camera masters.  It’s a powerful enslavement that has been with each of us for a lifetime.

And both are riders.

Gordon Harkins on Vespa 300Riders All

Gordon pilots a red Vespa GTS 300.  I’ve suggested he could assume a role on Sons of Anarchy but would have to abandon the scooter.  So far he’s shown no interest.

Paul Ruby leaping at the sight of a Vespa scooterPaul is a more eclectic rider and at home with a Vespa or a Harley and everything in between.  During rides I often have the opportunity to photograph one of his spur of the moment performances.  I often wonder at what age a broken bone will occur.

Gordon Harkins and his Vespa GTS scooterDefinition of Friendship

If I can call you at 3am and say “help!”, then you must be a friend.  Having someone in your life that you know will be there when you need them, no questions asked, is a gift beyond treasure.  I believe it’s a rare connection.

It’s not something we talk about or make an agreement about — I sense it.  I hope the others do as well.

Paul Ruby with a yellow Ducati motorcycleViews Through the Looking Glass

I’ve collected a number of pictures from our times together.  Paul always has a new motorcycle love — this one several machines ago — a bright yellow Ducati 1098.

Gordon Harkins with his Vespa scooterGordon rides only his Vespa scooter.  Not other machine has materialized in his garage.  At least as far as I know.

Steve Williams and Gordon Harkins with their Vespa scootersIt’s good to have friends who ride.  They understand the obsession, the desire to get away on two wheels, the phone calls requesting a truck and pick-up at at remote location.  This photo was made during a ride through Moshannon State Forest.  Red may be the fastest color in Vespa mythology but the silver scooter is by far the more beautiful…

Paul Ruby exercisingThis has become a familiar scene while riding with Paul — his back stretching exercise which appears in a variety of locations — on the road, on the side of the road, on a motorcycle, on a scooter — he’s an equal opportunity stretcher.

Gordon Harkins and Paul Ruby discussing cameras

A person is fortunate to go through life with a couple friends — especially ones with so much in common.

I’m a lucky man.