Can I Get There?
There’s a road not far from here that I’ve spent considerable time thinking about, looking at maps, reviewing satellite imagery, and searching for first-hand accounts of whether it’s passable.
I know where the road might lead — to the ridge top where I have ridden many times. And I know a short stretch that reaches through a farm field at the bottom. But what lies between is unknown. I’ve been told it is now private property. Some suggest a property owner has bulldozed a barrier making in impossible to cross. And some say it is just too steep and rough to navigate. I’m left with the question, “Can I get there?”
I recently stumbled on a mountain biking site where riders share information and saw a nugget of intelligence about the Pennsylvania Furnace Road — rough but passable. No one seems to care if you ride through. Satellite images appear to show the road going through someone’s front yard and being a gentleman I don’t readily trespass so close to someone’s home. Especially when so many people here carry and are protective of their property. Still, the report said “passable.”
That’s all I needed to reach out to Paul and ask if he wanted to take a long ride to breakfast on our Honda Trail 125 motorcycles.
A Cool Morning Approach
There are familiar rhythms to riding with a friend. Breakfast as a reason to ride, similar machines, and often routes that can be followed blindfolded. On some rides something different is introduced like a new breakfast destination or a longer ride. On this morning Paul and I were doing something different. We’d be explorers. The new territory and route is only 13 miles away from home. Hopefully a lucky number. Paul enjoyed a hot cup of coffee as I looked over his should at the gap in the mountain that I was hoping we could ride through. A few miles ahead I would finally have my answer.
Road or Farm Lane?
In the early 1980’s I followed this narrow strip of pavement over the rise to a farmer’s home for a photo assignment. Since then I have never gone beyond this point — a stop to make a photograph or to stretch my legs. My memory is a bit foggy of what’s just ahead but for a long time I hadn’t considered the road would go over the mountain.
In every direction, nearly 11 square-miles of field and forest was once part of the Pennsylvania Furnace iron works. A road into the mountain would have made sense to bring logs down to turn into charcoal for the furnaces. Remnants of two furnaces still exist along with the iron master’s mansion built in 1834. It stands, privately owned and on the National Register of Historic Places, just a few hundred yards behind us.
After a few moments and several photographs we decided to see what was over the rise.
Rugged and Steep
The pavement ended, and a narrow dirt road began. A lane to the right led off toward a farm I visited once, while an even narrower track pushed past a single old house and straight into the woods. Soon the road turned up the steep mountainside, where past rain had washed away everything loose, leaving behind a bed of smooth, rounded stones and river gravel. Forward progress was jarring as the small Honda Trail suspension met its match, punctuated by the rear tire continually breaking traction as we worked our way upward. After a couple hundred yards, I pulled over—partly to catch my breath, and partly to judge whether the way ahead was going to get any better.
Paul and I decided to press on, making steady progress even as the grade steepened. It was a clear, quiet morning, so why not. The trail passed a small cabin and offered one last stretch of deep ruts and thick mud before a sign marked the boundary of Rothrock State Forest. From there, the change in the road was immediate; the Bureau of Forestry clearly takes maintenance seriously on the lands they manage, no matter how remote. The road wound up through Furnace Gap, a narrow ravine with a sharp drop-off that quietly reminded me why I carry a Garmin inReach.
Looking back at it, I wouldn’t try that section on the Himalayan anymore. The larger tires and longer suspension travel would handle the rough stones better, but doing it smoothly would take more speed than I care to manage these days.
Riding Rewards
Eventually we came to the summit and stopped to take in the view. It’s a seductive experience that some suggest is rooted in human evolutionary biology. The relative safety of the high ground. Enhanced visibility of the world which heightens awareness and engenders a feeling of safety. For me it just reminds me of how small I am in the world. A tiny speck standing in the universe. I’ve been here many times and always have the same feelings.
Harry’s Vista
The view of Harry’s Valley is spectacular. From my vantage point on the rocks above the road I can easily see 50 miles or more. I used to be able to walk right up through the rocks. Now it is a far more careful operation. But definitely worth the effort.
The Road to Breakfast
An hour into the ride and I begin to get hungry. The joy or sorrow of early morning rides depending on personal goals and temperament. I’m grateful to not feel pressured to collect miles or be somewhere by a certain point in time. Generally speaking of course. I do have a calendar on my phone and it is full.
Riding through this section of Rothrock State Forest I notice the gravel is thicker and the packed tire track narrower meaning I have to pay closer attention lest the bike start to float around in the loose stuff. Twenty-five miles into the ride I’m happy to head to The Naked Egg Cafe for breakfast.
Film Photography on the Side
I’ve been carrying a film camera loaded with Kodak Tri-X black & white film on rides lately. Paul has been doing the same thing and the results have been interesting. At some point I may post something about the merits of shooting film in a digital world.
Breakfast was good, the ride home was nice, and investing three hours to explore a new route, spend time with a friend, and breathe in the world around me is a pleasure I’m happy to invest myself.
Despite concerns to the contrary from many corners of life, riding is worth embracing. It has changed my life for the better. And exploring a mysterious road is just the beginning.
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That was fun! Thank you for bringing us along.
Tom
Vermont
long time reader first time commenter
I’m happy to share the ride. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. There will be more rides coming along. I post every Monday and Friday morning at 8AM. At least that’s the plan!
Question: Do you air down your tires any when you tackle a road like that? My street pressure is around 24psi, but on rough terrain like that I air down to maybe 18-20psi so that the back tire especially has less chance to float and skid. The risk is a pinch flat, but so far it’s worked for me.
No, I have never reduced the air in the tires on any ride with any machine. And there are times when it probably would have helped. I just never think about it at the time.I keep 33 pounds in the rear tire and 25 in the front. I’ve always just gone with what the book suggests and don’t experiment. That probably says a lot about the kind of rider I am.
There’s something truly special about turning a longstanding question mark on a map into a tangible, memorable ride. The way you captured the quiet anticipation—from the thermos coffee with Paul to the loose gravel of Furnace Gap—makes us feel right there on the Trail 125s with you. It’s a wonderful reminder that true exploration doesn’t require crossing oceans; sometimes it’s just 13 miles away, hiding behind a familiar rise. Beautiful words and photos, as always!
I am continually surprised at how many hidden roads and places still abound so close to home. This past week I explored some on two different rides. And there are more to go.
It’s good to pull the curtain aside on the Pennsylvania Furnace Road. More experienced riders can handle it on a bigger motorcycle but I would not attempt it on my Himalayan. Too steep and the bike is too heavy.
Thank you for the kind words about the writing. I appreciate them.
I would face the challenge BUT without the rocks.
I was amazed Karl at how “slippery” those rocks were. A couple times I thought I might dump the Honda.
Curiosity, CT125’s, tres interesting roads, vistas, delectable brekkie options and a Nikon F. This place has to be awfully close to Heaven👌
*smiles*. Almost heaven for sure. I’m lucky to have so many great places to ride so close to home. And my interest in shooting film has been rekindled. I’ll probably post something about it at some time. Maybe when the weather gets bad and I’m not riding so much.
Nice report, especially the Honda’s performance on the rock strewn trail! Still debating whether to get a Honda CT125 or an Emtb for future exploration now that the TDub is gone.
The Honda Trail is a solid little machine. The only limitation for me is its typical top speed of 45 to 50 mph. Otherwise it’s a great little mule.