Moving Motorcycles
This post was supposed to be about hot dogs. But it seems to be more about the misery of summer riding.
There’s only room for one motorcycle in Paul’s garage. For long rides that don’t require any off-pavement maneuvers he prefers the luxurious comfort of his BMW K1300 motorcycle. Sure enough, when I arrived at his house to begin our ride to get a hot dog for lunch we had to first exchange machines. That meant paying a visit to a garage he rents on the other side of town.
Riding 200 miles to get a hot dog is exactly the sort of crazy behavior that we’ve both managed to normalize in our riding life. Any excuse to ride. Time and distance are irrelevant. We exist in a world where such things are concerns in the domains of youth and career. We’re just two guys with few cares in the world.
That’s before encountering the misery of summer riding.
Encountering Fog
Riding up and down over the mountains of central Pennsylvania you’re never sure what sort of weather you may encounter. Things can change quickly from a gray overcast to dense fog and on to blue skies. As photographers, Paul and I welcome the chance to stop and look around at the fog shrouded world.
Traffic was light but with winding roads, low visibility and the ever present White-tailed deer you need to pay attention and manage the ride appropriately. Mostly, it means slowing down.
Paul Ruby, Photographer, Author, Entrepreneur.
Paul got me started riding a scooter about 15 years ago. And before that he was instrumental in moving me beyond the commercial photography I was doing toward photography as an act of personal expression. On both counts, I am in his debt. We ride a lot together and have come, I think, to appreciate our own individual needs and behaviors on the road. Neither of us has a desire to bomb down the road at breakneck speeds. And both of us are entirely comfortable stopping to look around and take pictures.
When he’s not riding, Paul manages his eBay business selling exotic technology and equipment, cameras and just about anything that he finds that seems like a good bet to sell. One of his personal challenges is to find an item to buy while on a ride, photograph it with his iPhone, upload the pictures and description to eBay, and sell it at a profit during lunch to pay for the meal. More often that not he manages to do that.
And recently he published a book — Enlightenment for Engineers — a book reflective of his own, personal spiritual development.
Riding Through Amish Country
Had we taken the quickest, direct route to lunch we would have shaved off 30 miles each way and two hours in riding time. But then we would have missed the Amish buggies, winding roads and chance to get lost.
Which we, or should I say I, did twice which added even more miles and time. But that’s the chance you take riding without a GPS device or a map in this case.
Dead reckoning baby. That’s the way to ride.
As we motored along I could sense the temperature rising and at times feel the heat from the road when we stopped or slowed down. It kept reminding me of the misery of summer riding.
Dining in Shamokin, Pennsylvania
The temperature soared by the time we got to Shamokin. Add a growling stomach and you have a less than desirable finish to an otherwise fine ride. Shamokin is an interesting town in the anthracite coal fields of Pennsylvania. There’s a small mountain of coal tailings outside of town that reminds you of how big coal once was in this part of the world.
Coney Island Lunch
The Coney Island Lunch is a throwback to a different era. Not many little places like this left in the world. The same family has owned and operated the place since 1918. And the menu today is pretty much what it was then. If you are ever in the area you have to stop. Not because it’s a gourmet banquet, but because it’s the rare, non-chain eating establishment with a long, long history.
Lunch
Walk in the door and you are immediately greeted with the sight and aromas of dogs, burgers and grilled onions. When you’re hungry, it takes on a mythic character that sweeps me back to simple times as a kid where the picnic food has now become a Royal banquet.
Man was I hungry. One hot dog with chili and onions. One burger with cheese and onions. A bottle of water and a bag of chips. I was sated and ready for a nap. The thought of getting on the scooter in the heat for a hundred mile ride home didn’t appeal at all.
The Misery of Summer Riding
If you wonder why I post more often in spring, fall and winter it’s because I don’t like riding in the heat. Or doing much of anything in summer for that matter. Mostly I hibernate and hang out in cafes.
The idyllic scene was interrupted by mosquitoes forcing us back into the heat of the day and then to add insult to injury we encountered eight miles of a road crew doing the ever present tar and chipping. Riding in thick gravel just poured on a layer of oil is no picnic for the senses or to ride in.
At this point I was beginning to question the need for a 200 mile trip to get a hot dog or why I was riding at all. Shouldn’t I be draining the fluids and putting the scooter away for the summer?
I’d like to say I have fond memories of this ride. But I don’t think I do. The heat wiped away anything positive and has left my perception tainted by the sun. Or maybe it’s just riding to Shamokin that’s the problem. Or maybe it really is just the misery of summer riding.
On a ride over ten years ago I wrote about a personal funk in a post called Attitude Adjustment. It’s a decent recounting of riding to get my head straight.
How about you? Does riding help you straighten out the noise and chaos in your head?
Because it feels so much better when I stop. – Said no rider, ever, on a steambath summer’s day.
Well, it’s marvelous to have a riding companion you share so much good history with. That can make up for a lot of “issues” involving the ride itself. But I seriously feel your pain regarding the heat/humidity index, especially the last two days: early Saturday evening I took a solo ride up to Atlantic Highlands on a lark. What seemed relatively clear (if muggy) weather turned into a pea-soup fog situation without warning. I seriously contemplated turning back, but I was determined to do this, in spite of the fact that I’d be on a group ride with fellow Vespisti of the Jersey Shore Chaos Crew the following morning.
Glad I persisted: Atlantic Highlands is the highest point along the East Coast, and as I ascended, the fog began to lift…or should I say “fall?” Once at the top, I parked, walked a short distance, and looked out along the Atlantic: yes, the fog was still thick enough to obscure Sandy Hook below, but otherwise it was both cooler and clearer up there. After about a good half-hour’s contemplation (there’s also a 9/11 memorial there), I hopped back on Melody and took the sweet, twisty scenic road down to the marina, where the fog totally broke into a most sublime sunset. Sometimes, perseverance has its rewards.
Yesterday’s (Sunday) group ride was wonderful, but the humidity…seriously thick, but not scary-thick as it would be a few hours after returning home. The good ting was that we were seriously rolling a good 75% of the time, breaking only when arriving at a winery in Holmdel…I’m not big on white wines, let alone Rosé, but they had an example of the latter I couldn’t pass up. Just one glass, of course.
So, despite the weather on both days, it felt so good to be out on the Vespa. Anglers like to say a bad day fishing beats a good day at work (and even put that on t-shirts); I think we scoot folk need a shirt like that.
I’ve never really thought “highlands” with the Jersey shore. But I suppose it doesn’t take much change in elevation along the seashore to affect the fog and give the impression of altitude.
Heat, humidity and glaring sun — ugh. no matter how fast I’m moving it’s not enough to surmount the heat. For me at least. But even with that, I’m with you, it’s good to me out on the Vespa, even on a “bad” day.
This is my favourite scooter riding comment ever:
“Riding 200 miles to get a hot dog is exactly the sort of crazy behavior that we’ve both managed to normalize in our riding life.”
This is soooo true – just swap “hot dog” for “sydney rock oysters plus ocean swim” and the sentiments and logic match 100%
Thanks for all your posts
WombatDolphin
Sydney
Aus
We’re a strange bunch aren’t we? An ocean swim, how there’s a pleasure. Unless there are saltwater crocs involved…
I felt your pain regarding the heat. As you know, I am in Flori-duh and with rains every day and humidity 90% when it’s NOT raining, summer riding is miserable if you’re not done by 10:00 a.m. Not blessed with near the scenery you have, nor hills or even many curves for that matter, one melts in riding gear. Stops for photos are quick to say the least.
Mosquitos love sweat apparently.
Your hot dog stand sounded terrific though! I could smell the place! There is something similar about 7 miles and 15 traffic lights from me. Not an enjoyable ride. I’ll at least wait until summer is over – maybe December.
Summer riding in Florida seems, well, to be torture. I can imagine stopping in the shade and taking a nap under a tree. And then I’m woken by Fire Ants, or a Python slowy killing me, and an alligator prepping me for dinner…
Steve,
Living in Georgia I can relate to heat and humidity. I found a great solution- Cycle Chillers ice water cooling system. It’s ready to go from the box, plug in to a 12V accessory lighter socket or connect to your battery with the included battery tender type fused connector. Add ice and about 20oz. of water to the cooler, put on the vest with the tubing running throughout, connect the dry break hose couplings, hit the switch and enjoy marvelous cold water on your torso. Keeping the body’s core cool also cools the extremities. My head doesn’t sweat in my helmet when wearing mine. $269 shipped.
Richard in Blue Ridge
I’ll have to do some research on the Cycle Chillers. Not sure if it fits the simple gear I want to evolve but can’t hurt to look. Thanks for the head’s up!
As a Canuck dealing with a shorter riding season my attitude has always been “Any day on the bike is a great day” Age has tempered this enthusiasm a wee bit but I have discovered vented riding gear and as long as you are moving it is excellent. Contemplating a stop I am always on the look out for leafy, green, shady oasis’s and I can’t get even the vented gear off soon enough to satisfy. Having recently purchased a well used BV250 I do find the increased weather protection does provide for a warmer ride too. There is something to that old chestnut about having your “knees in the breeze” And thanks for the absolution Steve, many times over I have beat myself up over having ridden silly miles for a butter tart, espresso or heaven forbid, fresh cut french fries.
I will admit that my vented riding jacket helps a lot as long as I’m in motion. But the accumulation of heat during stops and the general baking that takes place is just a burden. Makes me feel sluggish and want to rest in the shade. Suppose I really should ride in the morning.
Glad to provide some absolution. And appreciate the same in return. Riding silly miles for little things is a real luxury. I’m grateful for the choice.
Years ago I had a riding buddy who lived near Gettysburg PA. He was a bachelor banker who always had weekends off. He used to call me on Friday evenings to ask if we wanted to ride together over the weekend to somewhere to get something to eat. His favorite ride of ours was up into New England to go to some breakfast or fish restaurant somewhere up there that he had discovered. Other than eating we usually spent all day Saturday and Sunday riding there and back. A lot of fun! My personal weekday evening rides after work was usually about 70 miles round-trip to a place that had offered homemade ice cream for many decades.
You’re really stretching the envelop with rides to New England for breakfast. Makes a 200 mile hot dog seem quaint.
I can relate to the 70 mile evening rides. I’ve done a few of those but more often they take place in the morning for breakfast. Would arrive late to work. Homemade ice cream — that’s a good idea!
Brilliant article. Makes me want to hop on my long-in-the-tooth GTV250 and head out on an Odyssey for lunch. Alas, I can’t, as work (a writing job) has taken me to Mexico for a few months. Mexico City, one of the world’s great metropolises (or is it metropolii?) has, over the past few years, been colonized by small numbers of blue & white electric motor scooters, of the Asian-semi-wannabe-clones-of-Vespa-design variety, but apparently quite good. I haven’t risked renting one (done via an App from one’s smartphone) and riding it about, mainly because Mexico City traffic scares the hell out of me. But I keep thinking that one of these days, I’ll ‘give in’ to the temptation. Anyway – thanks and props for a readable and excellent bit of human photojournalism. And if I ever get to Shamokin, PA, I’m definitely stopping at Coney Island…and telling them that you sent me 😉
Thank you for your kind words Miguel. A riding Odyssey for lunch is a great thing. Urban traffic, especially huge cities like Mexico City, would scare me too. I’m a confirmed rural rider and only make fleeting forays into towns and cities. Careful if you decide to rent a scoot in the city!
I’ll be interested to hear your thoughts on the Coney Island Lunch. The food is nothing special but the place is just a real throwback to another era. That’s the charm.
My wife is from there, and we go annually. Bit of a Vespa scene there (Malportados), mostly local brand scooters (Italkia). It’s always interesting watching small motorcycles and scooters lane-splitting and filtering in heavy traffic. They seem to manage. IMO there’s a culture around driving in places like that, and once you figure out the unwritten rules, it’s not all bad…but the learning curve is a doozie. My first venture driving in the city had me coasting up to a yellow/red light crossing a boulevard in the center lane. A car zoomed through the red on my left, and before I’d recovered, another one a half-second behind on the right.
I suppose I would adapt but right now thinking about it, it is so foreign to my experiences here in central Pennsylvania. I suppose I’m spoiled because of the riding landscape I happen to be in. The closest I get to the car zooming by from left and right are deer jumping out of nowhere!
I tried to include that foggy photo I took in this posting, but to no avail. It’s hard to believe how little has changed in 10 years at Coney Island Lunch. It’s like time stopped. We’ve been there several times previously, we stopped there when shooting photos in the snow at Centralia. The steam coming up from the ground through the cracks. No motorcycles though. I guess it’s no surprise that scooter riding and photography helps up explore our lives better. Makes us pay attention. When I get hot on a motorcycle I take off more cloths – at the expense of safety. I realize falling without projection…well it’s not pretty. Lots of skin comes off, eeeuuu.
I remember all those trips to Centralia. I’m glad the earth didn’t swallow us into one of those underground infernos. Probably stupid to wander around in those places that were posted with danger signs. Youth.
I’ve seen you remove clothes on a hot day ride. No helmet, no gloves, no jacket. Figured if you were in the Southwest you would be riding in boxers and flip flops.
Some of us from State College used to ride to Johnstown, PA for a couple of hotdogs from the Coney Island Dogs restaurant every year. It was our favorite stop during the Thunder in the Valley Rally. Haven’t had a “Coney Island” dog since we retired to Myrtle Beach 8+years ago. Sure could go for one now…
I’ll have to put the Coney Island Dogs restaurant on my list of places to visit. Johnstown is a good ride from here.
Hope life in Myrtle Beach is going well.
I still prefer Summer riding to cooler times. The bikes all seem to run better when they’re hot. A few weeks ago I was treated to a leg roasting astride the air cooled Kawasaki but I still loved it. I never get all the love for Fall and Pumpkin Spice. To me that’s just pre frostbite weather.
I’m definitely the opposite. Cooler weather is much preferred though my weather range is just constricting more and more every year. Sometimes I think it has been reduced to 65F to 75F. It’s hell to get old.
The reality though, despite my complaining, is that I love to ride and will put up with a lot of weather to do it.
And here I was thinking that summer was about over. Having to go through the snow a few days ago in Canada fed that feeling. Riding in the heat is not enjoyable to me and these days it’s almost enough to convince me to wait for cooler weather. And 200 miles for a good hot dog sounds reasonable…
It’s been chilly at night the past few days. And already I notice the shortening days. Geese flying south already. Winter is not far off. Frightening how fast the seasons have passed. I want it all to slow down!
Two hundred miles for a hot dog is ok, but 225 would be nonsense!
In my youth, the Coney Island Lunch was the place to be after the local bars closed. I revisited the place within the last decade. Burger and coffee! I don’t think a thing has changed.
I was surprised how late they stay open on some days. Now I know why!
Coney Island Lunch is a landmark in time…
Riding in heat and humidity can be insufferable at times. I’ve found the heat has stopped me from riding as I get older….it’s no longer about challenging the weather it seems.
As to riding for the hotdog, some guys label it RTE, ride to eat! I’m not sure I’d go 200 miles for a hotdog though….if you come through Colorado, there’s a spot near Guanella Pass Road (southern end) which features Coney Island Hotdogs, out of a venue shaped like a hotdog in a bun.
Challenging the weather is yesterday’s project. Now I’m on to challenging my mind — a subject too complicated to comment on here. But there is adventure between my ears.
Ride to eat, that’s definitely me. Many, many rides have a food component. Trying to get away from that. And away from so much photography while I’m riding as well. As Kim often says, how many pictures of the scooter on the road do you need to shoot? She’s right of course. With the BMW I don’t feel the same compulsion to stop and take pictures as I do with the Vespa. It may be because it hasn’t revealed itself as a character yet. Not sure.
If I ever get to Guanella Pass Road I’ll be sure to stop for a hot dog in your honor!