Please forgive the manifesto length of this post and too many pictures with it. I just needed to post this story and move on.
Pine Creek is one of the most beautiful streams in Pennsylvania. Riding through a late fall day I could feel a flame of excitement at witnessing the fading light and knowing I was riding on into the evening and my first overnight camping trip after over 30,000 miles of Vespa riding.
My friend Paul Ruby has been suggestion overnight foolishness for years including suggestions that we ride to New Mexico, the Adirondacks, and God knows where else. When I finally said yes to a humble camping trip I was ready for a little adventure.
Our plan was to ride north towards Wellsboro, Pennsylvania, and find a place to camp. The touring luggage on Paul’s Kawasaki Concours included a big cardboard box to hold his tent and other camping essentials all neatly strapped to the rear rack. I was sporting a new MotoFizz bag, one size larger than my previous one, and way too big for the little rack on the back of the Vespa. Neither of us would be confused as either overly concerned with style or as seasoned moto-campers.
Paul’s helmet sparkled in the shafts of light that burned randomly through the narrow valley carved out by eons of erosion courtesy of Pine Creek. I suppose it could have been some sort of spiritual illumination bursting forth from within, or maybe there is a Gort thing going on. (See The Day the Earth Stood Still) I’m still here and I saw no flying saucers.
Cedar Run is a small village along Pine Creek. Across the street from the General Store is the Inn at Cedar Run, a reliable place to eat and sleep. I was thinking of a hot meal and warm bed when Paul made the picture. With no suggestion from him of spending a luxurious night at the Inn we rode out of town and continued north.
The road passes through picturesque landscapes and non-existent traffic. We stop to make pictures where the road rises up above the creek. Paul spends some time with the camera and I just stand in the road, watching, taking in the place and the moment. I realize that I’ve never ridden with anyone but Paul save for a few hours one afternoon with a scooter rally. And rides with Paul are rare. In this moment I understand why I guard my aloneness on the road. It is the foundation on which my interest in riding is built.
Paul Ruby with his Canon 5D Mark II, Tioga County, Pennsylvania. We first met because of a shared interest in large format photography. He rekindled my dormant interest in riding and sold his Vespa ET4 to my father-in-law. I think this qualifies him as some sort of reinenasance man.
An unexpected work of art in the Penn Wells Hotel in Wellsboro, Pennsylvania. It was almost dark when we pitched our tents at the Stony Ridge Campground about 15 miles southwest of town and I fully expected to have a snack and go to sleep. Paul had other ideas. Tired, cold, and deer wary I followed through the darkness to a hot meal at the hotel. Dinner was uneventful as was the ride back to camp. Talk around a campfire until weariness won out and we retired to our respective tents.
Light streams through clouds at dawn. The tent’s mesh window unzips to allow for a picture before slithering back inside the sleeping bag to avoid the 40F predawn air. Years of sleeping in a comfortable bed has rendered the ground into a natural form of concrete. The Thermarest backpacking pad can’t abate the torture and thoughts of the Cedar Run Inn ease the aches as I slip back into sleep.
No one camps in Pennsylvania in late September, at least not here. There’s only one other pair of campers using the 240 odd campsites. There’s solitude in the off-season. After Paul makes a cup of coffee we decide on the Wellsboro Diner for breakfast. But not before I make a rash decision.
Our campsite was on the far side of a small stream accessed by riding across a small wooden footbridge. Anxious for eggs and bacon I suggest we just ride through the stream. Paul, not wanting to splash mud on his shiny Kawasaki, says he’ll cross the bridge and take a picture of me coming through the stream. Fine idea.
You probably already know large tires have a distinct advantage over smaller ones when negotiating obstacles. Though the stream looks shallow and tame the moment my front tire hit the water I knew I miscalculated. The streambed was composed of softball sized, rounded, algae covered stones that immediately caused the front tire of the Vespa to bump and lurch and nearly come to a stop as the back tire spun on the slippery rocks. I’m thinking of the camera and not wanting to post a picture of the scooter and I lying in a puddle.
Keeping my head I carefully manipulated the throttle while moving my weight as necessary and crossed the mighty water hazard. I’ll think twice before doing this again. On a motorcycle I wouldn’t have blinked.
MEMO TO SELF: Look before you leap.
Downtown Wellsboro, just across the street from the diner. It’s a familiar destination for riders traversing Pennsylvania via US 6. As the warm weather evaporates so do the riders.
Breakfast was relaxed and hearty, just what I needed after a less than comfortable night on the ground.
My frequent stops to make pictures would frustrate most riders. Paul seems impervious as I photograph the Vespa along US 6. If inclined a person could ride another 3000 miles on US to California. I often think of Kerouac’s contemplation of this road as that long red line in his book On the Road.
This is the photograph of the Vespa along US 6.
A stuffed black bear is enough to have me make a U turn in Galeton. A conversation in the taxidermy should was a reminder why one should always speak and behave well in the world – you never know who you might run into.
After browsing the specimens of deer, fox, turkey, and elk in the shop I found Paul had engaged the proprietor in the engineering marvels of radio-controlled cars with squirrels at the wheel.
The taxidermist, Mr. Hartley, and I talked a bit about riding and he told me about his son’s motorcycle. As the conversation progressed and he provided more details I kept thinking, “I know this motorcycle.” Turns out his son is my chiropractor. The radio-controlled car is a Christmas present for his grandson.
Just before Coudersport we leave US 6 for the more relaxed riding on PA44, a small road that winds its was through some of the most beautiful parts of Pennsylvania. Every so often I point the camera at something other than the Vespa and ask Paul to turn around and ride through a nice stretch of road so I can make a picture. Rain threatened on and off through the day. As the sky darkened a few drops of rain appeared on the camera. Thankfully it never got worse.
Potter County is a riding paradise. So many ribbons of road, so much to see.
Stopped at another vista with some iconic white pines I begin calculating distances in my head to someplace interesting to eat. The result was a discouraging 60 miles.
If my stomach was complaining Paul’s back joined the chorus. No, he’s not communing with the earth, just stretching his back. No matter how many times I’ve seen this maneuver it never fails to elicit a chuckle. I’ll have to ask his girlfriend what she thinks of it.
Looking at this picture makes me want to grab my gear and go for a ride. The path winding down the mountain near Hyner State Park is one of the prettiest scenes I’ve witnessed this year.
Crossing the West Branch of the Susquehanna River Paul pulls ahead and rides toward lunch in Lock Haven. Cruising at 60mph I watch the Kawasaki pass a sting of cars behind a truck. I grumble to myself but seeing the road clear I grab what throttle is left and manage to pass the cars and catch up to Paul. The Vespa is quick for a small scooter but its passing power at these speeds reminds me of my 1970 VW Beetle.
Lunch. Waiting for our order to arrive I photographed the reflections in the vintage metal walls of the restaurant.
Texas Restaurant has been around a long time and a great place to eat if the objects of desire are hot dogs or burgers.
As we had lunch that melancholy feeling arrived signaling the end of the trip. You know, that Sunday evening feeling you had as a kid when you realize the weekend is over and you have to go to school in the morning.
Paul and I had ridden nearly 300 miles. We said our goodbyes since most likely we would not stop again before going our separate ways. Last legs of trips bother me whether on the scooter, in the car, or on a plane. They signal the inevitable end of a trip. Or maybe the last leg is so familiar that I’m just bored by the thought of it.
On the street in Lock Haven I was able to push those thoughts from my mind and relish the memories of a Vespa camping trip.
[optin-cat id=”8800″]
I had no issues with the length of this blog entry and the amount of pictures. On the contrary I thoroughly enjoyed every bit of it.
And water crossing with a Vespa is pretty cool. Thank you for taking the time to post it. In case you have more of this you need to ‘get over with’, I will be your thankful reader.
It looks like a grand adventure. I have passed through Wellsboro a few times in the past and even eaten at the dinner on U.S. 6.
As far as your water crossing, you make it across with the shiny side up and that’s what count.
Thanks for sharing.
GAW
A nice adventure. The trip through the stream seems a little more like GS behavior. Are you sure you aren’t getting a new bike? I enjoy camping trips of just about any length or distance. Last August was my first trip with the motorcycle and my first observation is that you can really bring a lot of stuff compared to backpacking trips or bicycle touring.
Richard
Steve, nice post about a good experience. No apologies needed for the length. As Sojna suggests, a good read and worth the length. Of course the photos are good … especially the reflection play while waiting for your food to be served -:)
Cheers!
Chuck
SonjaM: Thank you for the feedback. Of late it seems as if the stories and pictures pile up faster than I can write posts.
GAW: a grand adventure on my scale but someday I wouldn’t mind trying something in the thousands of miles.
RichardM: maybe Kim will surprise me with a GS this Christmas. Otherwise I don’t see a BMW in my immediate future.
I surprised myself by not overpacking. I always had too much when backpacking.
Chuck: There were so many abstract and engaging subjects in the Texas Restaurant but my creative battery was getting low. They has a lot of neon to work with…
Steve
A very nice ride report, length was just fine. A connie and a vespa riding together….what is this world coming to? 🙂
You brought up the main reason I prefer to ride alone, being able to stop when I want and as often as I want to take pictures. When I ride with others, I sometimes feel I am “imposing” on their ride experience.
dom
Redleg’s Rides
Colorado Motorcycle Travel Examiner
It’s about time you told a proper story. Also it’s about time you did that Bronson long trip that has been nagging at you since God knows when.
2011 is the year house prices implode completely and the year Scooter in the Sticks takes his long awaited freakin’ ride.
Thats my New year’s prediction for you. Go do it (the ride not the house price thing).
Steve, a marvelous post, and a great adventure. May it be the first of many more. And really, you should take another stab at a scooter rally while you’re at it.
It’s a shame someone wasn’t shooting video as you crossed the stream with your Vespa… that’s something that could go viral in a heartbeat!
__Orin
Scootin’ Old Skool
dom: I know exactly what you mean about feeling as if you are imposing on others when you want to stop to take pictures. Some riders tell me they would keep going and I would have to catch up if I ever rode with them.
So what’s the point of riding together when interests are so different?
Conchscooter: I’d like to take the Bronson trip someday. It’s on my bucket list and has been since I was in high school land dreamed of driving a VW van across the country.
Someday…
Orin: Thank you for the kind words about the post. Not sure if I am ready for a rally. They still seem like work more than fun.
Next time I ride through a raging torrent I’ll make sure some video is made. I think Paul offered on this stream crossing but I was in a hurry to eat…
Dear Steve In The Sticks:
Reading this post made me feel as if we were brothers, to some degree. I too rode up through Wellsboro this summer… I ate at the Wellsboro Diner. I rode on Pa Route 44… And I even stopped in Galeton. You investigated the taxidermist. We bought steaks at the supermarket, and a few bottles of bad wime in the liquor store.
I have even been on the road in the very first picture you took. If I am not mistaken, there is a river or a stream down behind the bikes. I ride a mororcycle (in a manner of speaking) and I would not have taken my K75 through that stream.
My arthritis precludes camping at this point. And at the end of the day, I really like a hot shower, a coold beer, and air conditioning. Even in September.
I will meet you in Wellsboro one weekend next year. You don’t have to ride with me, but the entertainment value (especially my mounts and dismounts) is significant.
Fondest regards,
Jack • reep • Toad
Twisted Roads
Mr. Riepe: The area around Wellsboro is a fine place to ride and a far cry from the more intense traffic near the Starbucks in Exton. I get down that way every now and again to visit Waterloo Gardens and Swiss Pines.
Perhaps some day I will surprise the MAC PAC with a visit if they can tolerate a scooter rider in their midst.
Regardless of where we cross paths I look forward to the meeting. And would be honored to ride with you.
You are, after all, a legend.
Hi Steve. I’m not really making love to the earth in that photo. It’s just the angle of the camera. My butt looks nice in that one though. Did any girls ask about me and my butt? Boy those roads in the photos sure are pretty. We are luck to live here. That photo of the rising sun at the campsite is a good one. It’s hard to do a sunrise photo that’s different than the thousands made before it. It’s driving me nuts (I know I know it’s a very short drive) that I haven’t uploaded the video we made. I didn’t suggest we stay at the swanky Cedar Run Inn because I spent so much time packing all that camping gear and snacks. It’s been a long time since we spent that amount of time together. We stayed up pretty late discussing the problems of the world and how to fix them. Hey, Allison Marie is still riding her scooter around between the snow flurries. So you aren’t the only one in Centre County still riding. Paul
Dear Steve,
among the many cross country trips I’ve taken the one in the VW stands out as a series of mechanical nightmares. I remember my Lab Emma riding in the van on top of a tow truck so many times its about all I recall of the trip. That and Gallup in the snow and I still shudder at that memory.
Take the Vespa (or a Bonneville) and get on with it or you will be dead before it happens.
Great post, thoroughly enjoyed it.
Can’t get my bike out just now because of heavy snow.
Thanks very much for this, it’s a breath of fresh air.
All I can think of are two notables from my past.
The Wellsville, Addison and Galeton Railroad, a Pinsley-owned shortline which was originally part of the original Buffalo and Pittsburg railroad. Now abandoned.
And riding with friends, both now deceased in various parts of Pennsylvania and then returning to their home just north of Warren PA in Russell, PA.
He was in charge of the heating plant at the state hospital in Warren until he retired. Their tombstone is in the stone orchard as you enter Russell with an enscribed image of the two them riding their Harley-Davidson motorcycle. A now- abandoned New York Central branch line operated at one time from Warren to Russell and on to Jamestown, NY.
Pennsylvania has some wonderful roads and scenic routes. For me it has been too long an absence.
Maybe one ofthese when the US
is a safeplace totravel once again.
Hi Steve: Here are two videos. Not sure why they are squiggly.
Paul
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnv_3CzNomk
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ls83v4TLEIo
There are some really cool photos in this posting Steve. The winding roads remind me of my imaginary trip with Kerouac in On the Road. In our trip the roads are less gritty and with a positive kind of drama.
Paul
I love the whole story from the first capital letter to the final full stop! You really had an adventure. And the bear, the squirrel! I love. And next time be careful while estimating the depth of the waters. But a like it that you got a daring spirit there! Good photos too!
Would you be interested in selling some of your photos? I’m doing a booklet about biking in PA.
Chuck Benson 814-459-6291
Would you be interested in selling some of your photos? I’m doing a booklet about biking in PA.
Chuck Benson 814-459-6291
I simply adored reading this blog about your camping adventure. Seeing the PA hills were such a treat I used to venture around PA, KY, TN, when I lived in Charleston WV. Weekends were motorcycle-time away from college. Did my share of MotoCamping on a Honda 750. Still love camping of any kind. Tents for an overnight, RV for weekend and Staycations. Always bringing my Vespa and Aprilia along. I was glad you and Paul were in-sync the whole trip. Makes for a great friendship bonding time when it happens that way. Well, I have now read most all of your wonderful blog entries and have treasured every one of them. You are gifted my web friend. A writer, photographer, Motorcyclist, College Staffer, Junior’s Dad, and Family Man…life is good and ride safe. May the ribbons of road be good to you and yours always.
Love this whole post! Beautiful pictures and a great story to match!
Thanks Michael. It was a nice trip, one I hope to repeat this season yet before it gets too cold for Paul to ride.
Classy post! A lot of beautiful pictures. Very beautiful scenery in the pictures. And the photos are of good quality. Thank you. It pleases galz when you read these blogs.
Thanks for the kind words Mark. I appreciate them.
Steve – I just came across this one from some time back apparently. It was not too long in the least and for a Florida rider, the pictures of the country roads were spectacular. In some 40 years of riding I don’t think I’ve ever found a road with non-existent traffic here.
Pennsylvania is blessed with thousands of miles of lightly traveled roads through some lovely scenic areas. There is a trade-off though with these roads versus Florida — snow, ice, salt and grime. Those empty roads look attractive but when the temperature drops below zero and you’re riding along the romance diminishes…
I simply happened upon this story and now I’m convinced I do not at all need to trade-in my 2016 SYM HD 200
(170cc) 16″ wheeled scooter for anything bigger. Looking forward to my spring / summer excursions throughout WA State, the Pacific Coast and our Eastern WA Desert along the mighty Columbia River.
Dean
Seattle
Hello Dean. Your SYM is plenty for riding through Washington, along the coast and in the desert. They’re only a problem if you decide you want to live on the Interstate and travel at high speeds. But what fun is that?
Sometime soon I’ll be posting a story about my friend Michael riding from Key West to here on his Yamaha 200 Burgman scooter. And he rode on the Interstate.
Be safe and thanks for commenting.
Here I sit enjoying this story. You have brought extra pleasure to my day, now Oct.26,2020, Covid time. Thank you! Such glorious moments of freedom through memories – riding, camping in that part of the world in my imagination as I became immersed in your trip. Here I sit on my couch, preparing for a damp, cool walk about our town… my riding season ending soon. We are never really restricted from access to our experiences…. Thanks again for another wee gift in time.
COVID Time. That’s an unfortunate truth.
I’m glad you enjoyed my little camping adventure story. I hope Paul and I get to make another someday. With the cold weather approaching, I suspect that won’t happen soon. But my riding season will persist. Hopefully through the entire winter but my cold intolerance is already raising its hand. So it is hard to say how things will go. But as you say, if I am restricted, I have memories and experiences to fall back on!
I need more camping!