Enzo called last week and asked if I wanted to go for a ride. He would be in town a couple days. A last minute change in my schedule at work meant I could take a day off and head out for adventure.
Enzo is my youngest daughter Aleta’s boyfriend. They live in New York City where he has chosen not to ride. His recently acquired 2002 Suzuki SV650s lives at his parent’s house in State College is only on the road when he’s in town. The stars and planets aligned and at 6:50am on a chilly morning he was in the driveway.
Enzo is a photographer and I saw him kneeling out in the driveway with his camera. My mess of a garage never looked so good.
The ambient temperature indicator on the Vespa read 58F. Chilly, but nothing a windproof jacket under a vented riding jacket couldn’t handle. Cool air leaking though to skin had me wishing my First Gear Kilimanjaro IV winter riding jacket wasn’t having the main zipper replaced. I was still warmer than Enzo, who had a T-shirt under his mesh Revit jacket. We stopped at Café Lemont for breakfast and to allow the temperature to rise to a comfortable 64F before riding on towards Sproul State Forest.
Most of the activity in this area, at least until deer season starts, is focused on natural gas exploration of the Marcellus shale. I pulled off the road to stretch my legs and Enzo started investigating the line of brand new pumps used in the fracking process – injecting chemical solutions under high pressure to break up the shale deep in the ground to allow retrieval of natural gas.
I’m really not that much bigger than the Vespa GTS250ie.
Hundreds of gas wells are being drilled and roads which used to be practically devoid of cars now sees a steady stream of big rigs moving equipment, water, brine, and fracking solution throughout the area. Just like loud motorcycles don’t project their sound forward neither do these behemoths. If you aren’t paying attention they are bearing down on you before you know it. So now I watch for deer and big trucks.
The region is part of the Pennsylvania Wilds Program. Huge stretches of forest with amazing views. Two Rocks Lookout offered a chance to stretch our legs and warm up a bit. There were no signs of use at the picnic area and I wondered how long we might have to wait before someone came along if our machines quit working. No cell coverage for at least twenty miles. As close to wilderness as you get in Pennsylvania.
Much of PA Route 144 has been repaved making it a wonderfully smooth road through an enchanted forest with just enough turns and curves to keep it interesting.
In the distance we could see fog in the valley where the West Branch of the Susquehanna River flows. Enzo is probably the only person I have ridden with who seemed to inspect the landscape with the camera as much as I do. More probably. I still didn’t stop as often as I would otherwise and passed many scenes begging to be photographed.
Most times I just shoot pictures wherever I park. But at times I see something better is possible with some adjustments. One of the rare times you will see me without helmet or gloves as I move the scooter 30 yards down the road. I didn’t even bother putting my feet up.
So here it is, the setup, and I am reaching inside my jacket pocket for my camera. Another big truck cracking the silence.
And here is the picture. My impression of the place. A move of the scooter, a change in the focal length of the lens and you’ve created riding propaganda. I love photography.
Soon we would ride on to what I think is the highest elevation along this road and begin our descent into the valley and the city of Renovo and the rare opportunity to find fuel is this area.
A stop to make a photograph on a particularly twisting stretch of road. I told Enzo I have ridden through here many times but never stopped to make this picture.
Scoot’s Service Center is new to me. The last time I came through Renovo in search of fuel for a nearly empty tank I found the gas station had burned down. Today there was fuel and a few packs of crackers and cookies to tide us over until lunch.
We left Renovo for Hyner View State Park. With clear skies and the thermometer hovering around 70F the views promised to be exceptional. One of the nicest parts of the ride is the meandering road up the mountain to the Hyner View overlook.
In places the road moves through a tunnel of light and leaves. While making pictures at this location a man stopped to see if we were having problems and needed assistance. He had a hang glider rig attached to the roof of his car and said he hoped to fly today. Hyner View State Park is known as one of the premier locations in Pennsylvania to fly.
At the top of the mountain we’re greeted with a spectacular view. Enzo made this photograph of a young couple sitting on the edge of the stonework at Hyner View. The woman was talking on her cell phone. My iPhone had no service. Score one for Verizon.
The pilot sits on the overlook gazing out over the valley. The view is stunning and I hope to see him fly. Though I’ve been here a number of times over the years I have not seen a hang glider take off since the 1970s.
There’s a lot of air between the overlook and the valley floor where he would land. We talk about flying and he tells me he has been flying here since 1975. His record at this location for time in the air is just over seven hours and he has reached an altitude of 7500 feet. I thought it would be a straight glide to the landing area. Things have changed since I first say gliders here 35 years ago.
As he watches the wind and air flow it’s obvious how methodically he considers the risks of making a flight. I’m reminded of Dan Bateman at Musings of an Intrepid Commuter. He communicates the same informed, methodical approach to evaluating and managing risk on the road.
I’m not reminded of Jack Riepe at Twisted Roads. Well, I sort of thought of him. I figured Jack would have made a beeline towards the woman on the cell phone. He is Jack Riepe after all.
But I digress.
Groups of motorcycles (almost all Harley-Davidson with a stray BMW thrown in) came and went while we waited for the hang glider and admired the view. When it seemed as if he was in no hurry to fly Enzo and I made a decision to head towards a mid-day meal.
A road sign indicated it was only five miles to PA Route 44, a fine road winding along Pine Creek. I knew a way to loop around home from there and was certain we would find a place to eat. What I didn’t know is the condition of the 5 miles of forest road. The addition of heavy trucks and equipment related to drilling and building pipelines makes it hard to predict. The road where this picture was taken was thick with fine dirt and rock dust. I was glad it was only five miles. Actually, it turned out to be closer to nine.
Route 44 was freshly paved and smooth and we may good time south towards Waterville and a place to have lunch. I can’t remember the name of the place but they had a good cheesburger.
After lunch we still had 60 miles or so before home but all on familiar back roads. At least to me. I think this was a new world for Enzo.
A last stop for fuel in Millheim and some ice cream. While we were getting ready to leave an Amish buggy pulled up to the gas pumps. Looked odd and then the two women driving proceeded to fill a half dozen gas cans. Hard to tell what they use the fuel for and I didn’t feel like prying. I was on an adventure after all.
Arrived home with another 177 miles on the Vespa and a relaxed smile on my face. Poor Enzo had to drive back to New York City.
But he’s young.
Sarah says
Nice post, I almost felt like I was on the ride with you 🙂 A nice break for a Monday morning. I’m new to scooter riding, and found your blog thanks to a recommendation by my Dad (a long time motorcyclist.) I really enjoy reading your posts, and also love your photos – they really help to bring your story alive. Thanks for sharing!
Circle Blue says
I confess some envy. Would that I should have such an adventure with the other man in my daughter’s life. Oh well.
Thanks for bringing me along.
~Keith
Orin says
“The Making of Scooter in the Sticks.” Great post!
I’m surprised Enzo won’t ride in NYC. I find urban settings much less stressful than the ‘burbs or even country roads. Traffic slows everything down, and in most major cities in the U.S. drivers have become used to 2-wheelers of all kinds.
In Bellingham, I see deer in peoples’ front yards…
__Orin
Scootin’ Old Skool
Steve Williams says
Sarah: Thank you for the kind words. I get to relive the ride when I write these posts and prepare the pictures. A variation of journal keeping that I hope I can look back on someday and smile.
Is your dad a reader here?
Steve Williams says
Keith: Just dumb luck that Enzo is a rider. My father-in-law rides a Vespa. Maybe the three of us can ride somewhere next.
Orin: I think Enzo has some strong feelings about riding in the city. When I visited I thought the surface streets would be fine. Wouldn’t like the freeways and bridges though….
Maybe he will comment here and enlighten us.
Charlie6 says
Steve, I really like the one you wrote: “my impression of the place”, very nice.
dom
Redleg’s Rides
Dan D says
Steve, nice post and excellent photos as usual. Yes, the Hyner Run road is always slow going and seems to run on forever. Last time I was at the View there were three gliders in the air, one stayed aloft the whole hour and a half I was there.
BTW, the ladies at Millheim were getting fuel for stationary engines they use around the farm. Sometimes those engines are driving equipment being pulled by a team of horses.
You should stop at Dutch Valley Bakery some time between Millheim and the Penns Valley schools. The best whoopie pies, some good cookies and pies, and they make ice cream on Saturdays. They had teaberry and grapenut as well as vanilla last week. It’s easier to visit when there’s not PSU home football game traffic.
Glad you could enjoy the ride with Enzo, and hope the next few weeks are riding weather.
Steve Williams says
Dom: I am always aware of how my reactions to a situation or place can be different from someone elses especially where photography is involved. I try to produce posts that reflect my experience.
Kim is listening to Todd Runtgren and I hear “…things aren’t always what they seem to be…”
Appropriate.
BeemerGirl says
Looks like a photogenically wonderful day! Happy that you were able to enjoy it and especially for sharing!
Jacki Weikert says
Great shots (as always) and great story too! thanks!
Jack Riepe says
Dear Steve:
The pictures of the valleys and hills you’ve provided in this episode have me itching to ride out there. But I regret that while the spirit is willing, the flesh is arthritic.
I do not think any good will come from the process of fracking, and I can’t believe anyone would think there was much difference between the BP oil leak in the Gulf, and pumping poisonous chemicals into the ground water. What goes down, in this case, must eventually come up and flavor the drinking water, the grass consumed by dairy animals, and the vegetables eaten by humans. Once again, this is a gold rush to cash without thorough research. I so deeply regret it is happening in one of the prettiest stretches of Pennsylvania.
I consider myself the last living Tyrannosaurus Rex and the urge to procreate is strong. Had the lady been alone, I would have offered her half of my prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich (on gourmet bread), along with a cup of soothing champagne. And had the moment been right, I may have let the battered baby harp seal look out of the bag too. I’m sure Dan Bateman can tell us the best way to enter a turn, but I have been handling curves with success since I was 16.
Your blog was the inspiration for my writing the first Twisted Roads… You have no idea how gratifying it is for me to be cited here. You are regarded as one of the “pure riders of two wheels.” I too have a reputation, though not that one.
Fondest regards,
Jack • reep • Toad
Twisted Roads
Steve Williams says
BeemerGirl: The hazy hot weather seems to be gone and the cooler air has brought a wider palette of skies and colors. I always think my outdoor pictures improve as the temperature goes down.
Jacki: Thanks!
Steve Williams says
Dear T Rex Riepe:
The north central art of Pennsylvania is a fine place for riding and photography. Even with the increased traffic and humanity caused by the gold rush it remains a place of solitude for me. I hope between the pharmacuetical industry and your own good sense you find your way on a K bike up this way. Or perhaps one day I can shed most of my own sloth and ride down your way.
I hope you’re wrong about the potential disaster awaiting us in regard to fracking. Pennsylvania has a long history of industry and commerce colliding with the environment. Let’s hope the planners and regulators have improved a bit from the days that people dropped dead in the streets from the smoke and toxins belched freely from the industrial engines of the early 20th century.
I’m sure Dan Bateman can tell us the best way to enter a turn, but I have been handling curves with success since I was 16.
What more can be said on the subject???
I am flattered by your kind words about this blog being an inspiration for your own great work. Thank you.
Bryce says
Those feet out the side are known as outriggers, great to ensure you don’t fall over on the tight curves.
As to Renevo the last time I was there was when it was pennsy helper station and Alco RS3’s were mainline locomotives…that was 1965!
Looks like Enzo enjoyed himself!
SonjaM says
Lots of the pictures I take of my bike and the road are inspired by your choice of perspective. I am not good at it (point and shoot is all I can do) but I enjoy it anyway. Thank you for taking us on this lovely journey.
Nelson says
Steve,
You’ve probably posted this elsewhere on your sight, but can you tell me the specifics about the camera you use to get these shots? Perhaps you can direct me to the blog post where you’ve already provided this information. Thanks!
I continue to enjoy your blog!
SheRidesABeemer says
Holy smokes, the picture of the moving oil truck buzzing past the scooter, what perspective! makes me want to lean the other way to avoid it. Your photography is really taken a step forward these days! Gail
Brady says
I wish someone would come by and make my messes look so good. Those are great pictures and the view is beautiful. I suppose it’s the same mountain chain I’m on, but seeing it through someone else’s eye is always a nice change.
Steve Williams says
Bryce: I usually only get the outriggers out for snow. This instance was one of pure laziness.
I remember all the big trains in Renovo in the early 70s, just before the railroads flew apart. Sad to think all those right of way’s are gone. One day someone will be kicking themselves over those decisions.
Steve Williams says
SonjaM: I use a point and shoot camera. A little practice and experimentation and you can do some cool things with them.
There are lots of people doing exquisite work with camera phones. Check on this iPhone video, shot and edited on a phone. Amazing stuff.
Steve Williams says
Nelson: Almost everything I shoot for Scooter in the Sticks is done with an old Canon G9 camera. It’s been beat up pretty badly and I suspect when it dies I will get myself a new Canon S90.
On occasion I will take a picture with a digital SLR camera but that’s usually because I am on assignment and have that camera.
Steve Williams says
SheRidesaBeemer: Those trucks are big and in a hurry in a place that I always consider calm and serene. They just appear out of nowhere so you better get out of their way.
Thanks for the kind words about the pictures! You probably are referring to the ones Enzo made!
Steve Williams says
Brady: Photographers can perform magic and transform the worst of things into things of desire.
Each time I look at my garage now I have no desire to clean it up…
You live in a nice area. I wish I could ride that way more often.