What’s big?
When your everyday ride is a Vespa almost everything seems big. I’ll confess a prejudice towards large motorcycles and share my reactions as I tried out the BMW. The BMW R1200 RT fits neatly into my big motorcycle category with descriptors like heavy, lumbering, cumbersome, overpowered, and expensive. All of them negative and a reflection of my own riding preferences. Even Craig Kissell recognized my bias when he offered me the motorcycle beginning with, “I know this isn’t your style.” That’s the baggage I brought along on this ride.
I tell myself I’m going to be open and fair towards this BMW when I roll it out of my garage on a clear, 40 degree morning (back in early May). After placing my camera, notebook, and map in one of the side cases and checking the bike over I decided to leave my cold weather riding jacket and gloves at home and surrender myself to the protection of this touring machine.
My feelings about big bikes might color my riding expectations, but it does not affect my familiarization routine with a new machine. In a parking area at the end of the street I sit quietly examining the controls, feeling the switches with my thumb, and raising my boots off the ground to experiment with the motorcycle’s balance. It’s what I do. It makes me feel better that I won’t be making that call, “Hey Craig, you know that BMW I’m riding….”
There’s a riding plan in my head but before heading down the road I force myself to practice a few slow speed maneuvers and some braking tests. Nothing dramatic, just enough to feel how the BMW responds.
I plan is to ride north on main roads. Fast, without stops. No meandering down back roads looking for pictures. This time I am going to be a real rider. No frequent stops, just a fast direct route to breakfast 50 miles away.
The R1200 RT is designed to travel. If I had to ride to Montana tomorrow and didn’t have a lot of time this is the kind of motorcycle I would choose to make it a pleasant, comfortable trip. Pleasant and comfortable — new descriptors.
It’s cold outside. On the Vespa I would have several layers under my cold weather riding jacket, electric gloves, and overpants. At 70mph on a 40 degree morning a person would get pretty cold without protection from the wind. But here I am with a sweater and t-shirt under my mesh summer riding jacket, summer gloves, jeans and boots. The power windshield and cowling keeps me out of the windblast. The heated grips keep my hands toasty and the heated seat, well, let’s just say it’s nice. By the time the thermometer reaches 55 I have shed the sweater. I could see riding this motorcycle until the snow flies.
I make the 50-mile trip to breakfast in record time with only one stop to take a picture. The BMW is smooth and the faster you go the smoother is seems to get. It feels luxurious. I add smooth and luxurious to my list.
No one passed me and when I joined the four-lane section of US 220 BMW traveled at speeds my Vespa could only dream about.
Did I mention the R1200 RT has cruise control?
After a hearty breakfast at the Restless Oaks Restaurant near McElhattan, Pennsylvania I pointed the bike north towards Mansfield 70 miles away.
The BMW does a bit of deception when it comes to speed. The wind protection, power, and smooth ride give the impression that you aren’t traveling as fast as your actually are. On a stretch of US 15 I glanced at the speedometer and saw 80mph. I would have sworn to the State Police that I was going 60. No wonder I was passing everyone.
On the high points of US 15 just south of Mansfield I hit some heavy crosswinds. The bike’s big profile would seem to make it a perfect target for some serious buffeting but the R1200 RT tracked along well after scrubbing off some speed. Pretty impressive considering how badly some other bikes I have ridden performed in crosswinds. I add stable to my list. I don’t want to add impressive yet.
I think about the motorcycle during a stop to stretch my legs and make a few pictures. I’m beginning to understand what a touring bike is about and why someone would want one. Everything works smoothly to deliver a great ride on the highway. It’s got plenty of power, lots of storage and storage potential, and plenty of features to extend a rider’s comfort range. Things like electronic suspension adjustment and integrated ABS brakes. What do I love? The big display that tells me what gear I am in. Now you know where I’m coming from technically.
After a stop for fuel along US 6 (I didn’t check the fuel economy) I headed into Wellsboro for a quick look around. Thirty-six years ago I regularly traveled through this area in a 1970 VW Beetle as I made routine trips from State College to northern Tioga County. The BMW is a far better way to travel than that old bug.
Just a few hours on this motorcycle and I had to reevaluate my early expectations. It doesn’t seem large and I was impressed at how easy it was to handle. It wasn’t cumbersome though you do have to pay attention to what you are doing, especially doing very slow maneuvers or pushing the bike around for parking. If something stupid is going to happen that’s where I’ll place my bet. Several times I caught myself saying, “This BMW is pretty nimble.” I’m not adding nimble to the list.
I make a stop for water and chocolate at the Pierce General Store in Morris, Pennsylvania. It’s nice to go into a place that doesn’t have dozens of other stores just like it. Standing outside I was considering routes home. There’s always a choice in Pennsylvania – the simple direct route and the rider route that is twice as far and four times as scenic.
I choose the latter and turn off PA 287 onto PA 414 towards Blackwell and many miles of narrow, twisting road along Pine Creek.
When asked “Why do you ride?” I think about places like this. Lightly traveled roads through the forests and mountains of north central Pennsylvania where my spirit and thoughts are free to wander unencumbered by the more serious nature of work and responsibility. And there is so much to see. My desire to see the landscape is, in part, why larger motorcycles don’t fit easily into my riding world.
With more powerful motorcycles I find I ride faster more often and I just see less. Over 30mph and you just miss the details of a place. Traveling fast requires a lot of attention to the road because things happen so fast. You just can’t pay attention to the landscape around you as well. And I’m much less inclined to stop and inspect things because of the work involved making U-turns, parking and getting on and off a big bike. But that’s me.
I did stop and turn around to look at this cable car linking this side of the road to a cabin across the creek. Lot’s of nice little cabins in this part of the state.
The road is narrow, high crowned with almost no shoulder. I feel as if the bike isn’t tracking well through the broken, uneven curves and turns. This is no place to cross the center line or drop off the side of the road. I ratchet up my attention and think again of the need to practice on a new motorcycle. It’s the first time my lack of experience with the bike is apparent.
I’m stopping a lot now to look around and take pictures. This time as I cross Pine Creek. I’m feeling the lack of flexibility in my legs and hips as I swing my leg up and over the side cases and seat of the BMW for the 20th time. While the bike is designed for comfort it was never intended for the stop, start, and stop again riding routine I can get into.
Just to make sure you understand what I’m talking about, I may stop 6 times in one mile and spend 20 minutes looking around. It’s a wonder I ever get anywhere at all.
The road moves in and out of the forest as it tracks along above Pine Creek. I never tire of this part of Pennsylvania.
Crossing into a new county the road surface changes. Amazing what planning and cash can do for a road.
This is the first BMW I’ve ridden with a boxer style engine. It seems to have great low and medium speed torque and power and shifts as smoothly as anything I’ve ridden. It’s easy to understand why the BMW has developed a mystic among its riding community.
At another bridge I’ve been on and off the bike for over four hours and aside from the soreness related to swinging my leg over the bike I am remarkably relaxed and comfortable. Had I been heading to Montana I would be approaching the Ohio-Indiana border with plenty of energy to ride on to Chicago and beyond before bedtime.
On one stretch of road along the creek it was nice having a windshield as I plowed through swarms of insects. I was nice not having to stop and clean off my face shield.
One final stop at Ross Siding and I made the decision to put the camera away and head home. Directly. I’m 70 miles from home and just enjoyed the ride on the BMW R1200 RT.
With the bike sitting in the driveway I imagined the kinds of rides I could make. Long day rides, weekend rides, or extended tours. The BMW R1200 RT would be ready for any of them. For my choppy, start and stop, pictures first, riding second style it would not be the best bet. But for many riders this motorcycle would be heaven.
Steve – excellent write-up and great photos, as usual! I want one of those Beemers!
A bike like this (or more correctly, the lust for one) is what got me on a scooter. Learn to ride, then move up to the Beemer.
Now that my membership in the middle class has expired, I can only look. Your comments about its ease of handling make me think; my GTS has always seemed about as heavy a bike as I would be able to handle, given my present state of health.
Thanks for the review.
__Orin
Scootin’ Old Skool
Mike: Thanks for your kind words. Since you ride a BMW you have far more experience than I do on the machine so I feel I wasn’t completely off base.
I love the picture of your BMW at the vineyard. Great photograph. If it was just a Vespa it would be perfect!
Orin: And I thought you were a diehard, one way, tunnel-visioned, faithful, committed Vespa rider. Now the bubble’s burst knowing you long for a Beemer.
Oh well, there are worse vices I suppose.
Hope all is going well with you and the sun shines down every now and again.
Dear Steven:
So this isn’t the kind of bike to suit your riding style?
Welcome to a new riding style. Now go back and try the K1300GT. Comfort and speed take on a whole new dimension on a bike designed in this century.
It is always a pleasure to read your blog.
Fondest regards.
Jack • reep • Toad
I’m waiting now for the Gold Wing review. Speed, comfort, and mass taken to yet another Steve stretching level.
Great ride report, I feel like I had been riding pillion with you. I almost want one… alas the budget…
Steve – thank you for your kind words. I think your review was right on target. I like how you even managed to use the word “nimble”. When I was thinking about getting an RT I felt that it suited my needs the best. I also considered an FJR which also would be fine. I kept thinking the RT was too big and in the beginning it seemed so. But it’s like anything else, you get use to it pretty fast. Now it seems normal. I can say this because it has nothing to do with me but I get a lot of positive comments about it from all ages and both genders. Then people usually say that it’s big but to me it’s not.
Your comment about the vineyard shot with a Vespa made me laugh. It would look perfect!
Steve,
Wonderful write-up of a great bike. If I were to put ‘Connie’ (formerly known as ‘Nobility of Man’), my beloved 1993 K75, to pasture, this would be my next choice. Even though the K75 is certainly capable of long distance rides, I long for the comfort and power of the larger R and K RT models.
Michael.
Steve, sounds to me like you need both a Vespa AND a BMW. LOL
Glad you enjoyed the ride on the big bike. I hope you keep doing these reviews because it is very interesting to see your impressions.
Dave T.
Hey Steve,
That bike seems to fit ya! Just be
careful. Lil Sis
Your comments about photos first and riding second struck a chord to me. Many times on a ride I will stop to get a picture or take a drink. A scooter has a definite advantage for that type of riding. For long distance touring, however, this bike sounds like the ultimate solution.
You are lucky to get to try out all of these bikes.
Now that riepe has commented i can confess, having ridden my buddy’s R1200 this is the bike I’d own if I were stupid enough to live in a place that gets frost. I’d have to sell my dog and Orin’s left foot to afford but…it would be worth it.
I am looking forward to seeing you stop circling the long distance drain and getting on with it. Sooner or later it will be too late and regret is a dreary thing to go to the grave with. I say that from Motel Six in Van Horn, West Texas. Even in a car this is a desolate place.On a GTS it would be…bracing?
Don’t know why the migration from Italian elegance and fire to German power and precision is so natural, but it is and I did it, too. It’s like changing from a small but spirited Morgan horse to a surefooted but huge hunter-jumper. I need to grip the Beemer with my knees for control, but parking is definitely my least favorite event!
Steve, Being a R1200RT and F650GStwin owner, I can relate to many of your comments. Many times I’ve been asked why I keep both motorcycles. I think maybe the best answer is my riding style is not singular and suites both rides. I enjoy your photos and words…
Happy Trails, Claye
Mr. Riepe: I will have to take a look at the K bikes. If I have learned nothing else it is that my preconceived notions about motorcycles are wrongheaded.
It is good to have people like you keeping me honest and pointed in the right direction….*grin*
Doug: It is kind of strange still to be riding so many different kinds of motorcycles. I can see how a person could get lost in the collection of machines. They are so nice…
SonjaM: Thanks for you kind words about the review. Budget, alas if were not for that, I would have many toys.
Mike: It is amazing how short a time it takes to become comfortable on a new motorcycle. And nimble is, well, a subjective term. I guess it explains why it’s possible for a guy to do wheelies on a Sportster and run around a playground on one wheel as if it were a unicycle.
You do need to ride a Vespa once in awhile to keep yourself humble and grounded.
Cantwell: You should talk with Mr. Riepe and have him start some sort of campaign to move you to a bigger R or K bike. He’s full of, well, good ideas isn’t he?
Thanks for your kind words here too, I appreciate them
David: I have for a long time been indifferent to anything but the Vespa I ride. I think Craig Kissell knew that if I started riding more motorcycles something would happen and I would eventually break down and buy something. I continue to resist but it feels futile at times.
I am working on a list of bikes I covet and will post that soon along with the various degrees of insanity involved in motorcycle thought…
Lil Sis: If I am nothing else I am careful. Especially with someone else’s machine!
cpa3485: The Vespa is definitely the perfect foil for my picture taking but you are right about something different for a long tour. Time will tell if my riding turns that direction.
I do feel lucky to have stumbled into this arrangement with Kissell Motorsports. It is a fine ride.
Conchscooter: Thank you for your always thoughtful comments. The long distance drain is shielded by work and other commitments and may not yield until I retire. I still don’t understand how men and women manage to take 4, 5, or more weeks to go on a trip. I don’t think I have ever had more than 2 weeks in a row off at one time except once when I was a Teamster and on strike for 8 weeks. But I had no money or motorcycle them.
West Texas on the Vespa. That sounds right up my alley!
BlueSophia: So far every motorcycle I have ridden (with the exception of the Ducati Hypermotard) seemed like a natural and easy progression. I’m so easily swayed I guess.
But I always thought of my Vespa as a big, Thoroughbred hunter-jumper. Why does everyone think of the scooter at the bottom of the riding pyramid??
Fleeter: I am currently trying to determine how many machines I really need to live a complete life. An equation will be required to account for time, energy, cash, and relationship capital preserved and lost. My fear is the calculations will reveal that I should have another Ford Falcon and leave it at that…..
Steve, I almost felt as if I were riding the BMW R1200RT myself, as I read your delightful narrative. Having ridden other BMW’s, I also can appreciate the other comments: from a rider of multiple bikes who has multiple riding styles … I still like the spiritual quality of your writing-as it reminds me of parts of myself I’ve yet to publish. Keep up the good work!
Bob Olcott: Thanks so much for the kind words of praise. I find the riding and writing converges well for me as a creative outlet so I will continue to create more pictures and text.
So far I don’t feel as if I have anything but my one riding style. Maybe that would change if I was riding something else more often.
Steve
A very nice writeup on the R1200RT, kind of made me miss my R1150RT a tiny bit. These motorcycles definitely live up to one the nicknames given them: Long Distance Operator.
I’ve done 600+ mile days on the RT and repeated the next day with no major issues or ailments.
As you saw though, their bulk can make life “interesting” when going slow or on uneven terrain but even that can be overcome with practice.
It’s quite impressive how motor cops can make large motorcycles like the RT dance…
Still, continental-distances-crushing as these sport-tourers are, there’s more of a fun factor with smaller motorcycles as well.
Again, nice writeup…I look forward to future reviews of other Beemers.
dom
Redleg’s Rides
dom: 600 miles is a lot even for a car. I can’t imagine doing it on a motorcycle. I suppose if I was on the road and hell bent to get somewhere I would adjust.
A friend has the BMW R1150RT and he loves it. Feels it is a superior machine to the R1200 RT. Those close technical comparisons are beyond me.
One of the other BMWs available to me is the S1000 RR. Those go fast machines and the leaned over riding position are more than my creaky body can handle.
So I’m not sure what’s next. I do have to post the review of the F800 GS. I have some nice pictures from that ride.
Steve
the s1000rr is billed as the most fastest/sophisticated yada yada sportbike by BMW. You should review that since your perspective and mine are close in terms of what we want from motorcycling!
I don’t see myself ever on sports bikes but would really be interested in your review of it!
Steve said: But I always thought of my Vespa as a big, Thoroughbred hunter-jumper. Why does everyone think of the scooter at the bottom of the riding pyramid??
You know the answer to that! The low center of gravity, the ease of stepping through to get on, the twist-and-go no-clutch transmission, the engine size averaging at 150 cc with top speeds around 60 mph, the small wheel size … all these features put scooters at the low end of the performance pyramid where longer trips or red-line roads are considered.
Of course, these features also make scooters much more accessible for small, inexperienced or occassional riders. A good thing!
Dear Steve:
I think the BMW S1000RR is a perfect match for your riding style. Since it does 0-80mph in something like 2.75, you could cover 12 stops in under 15 minutes.
My dream is the new BMW K1600GT… Six cylinders and 160 hp, in a touring bike. Touring as it was meant to be.
Fess up… Isn’t the “gear indicator” just the most addictive thing? My K75 has one. At first, I thought it was really stupid. And then I realized how practical it was.
Fondest regards,
Jackl • reep • Toad
Twisted Roads
dom: I still have sportbikes on my no-go list. Not sure why other than they look terribly uncomfortable. And I am all about comfort. That’s why I ride in the winter.
Maybe though….
BlueSophia: Those are exactly why it should be on top of the riding pyramid. Far more challenging to deal with –technically, emotionally and psychologically.
No one makes fun of motorcycle riders. Except for those guys at South Park.
Jack Riepe: I think you are trying to get rid of me via the BMW S1000RR. I promise not to make anymore smartass remarks on your blog.
I do like the gear indicator. I wish my Vespa had one so I could track which gear ration in the infinite ratios available I was in.
The only downside in Vespa instrumentation.
Hello Steve!
I can understand the thrill to test big bikes. I ride a Vespa GTS 250. And this summer we had a lot of problems with the fuel pump in the GTS from my wife and my GTS.
All over Europe, there are hundreds and perhaps thousands users with broken pumps …
So we looked for big scooters! Beverly 500. But there is nothing else which is so smart as a Vespa.
Each of us both uses a big topcase at our Vespa. So it gives us enough storage space to do tours for some days into the near Alps. But we really don’t need very much to go for a some day trip.
The Vespa is fast enough to ride all the small roads we use normally. And we don’t like to ride highways, neither with a big bike or scooter nor with a Vespa.
I agree with you, a Vespa gives you the freedom to stop everywhere and to get the impression of the landscape, smell the wood, see the light, discover small pieces.
A big bike gives me the only impression to miss time when looking around …
I like your photos very, very much. I hope you won’t feel angry, when I write here, that I have the feeling all your photos with your Vespa, somehow in the countryside are much more charming, than the photos you did with a BMW bike.
Each of your photos with a Vespa is a piece of art, well-thought-out and the viewer can feel your love to the countryside and to your scooter and in the way you putted them together. It is nearly possible to touch the impressions and feeling you had, when you did the photo.
The photos you did with the BMW, are simply a bike in the country side. There is no real love in it!
Stay with your scooter! 😉
Ewald
Perhaps you like to have a look to my blog vespamenschen.de for one of our last tour to the Timmelsjoch a alpine pass with a height more than 2.500 m over sea level, at the border between Italy and Austria.
It was ice meeting you at the PUMP STATION in Boalsburg Coffee Cafe…talking about Photography and Blogging…I do old Barnwood Frames and Clock-making…!
Harry Brotzman Jr.
Zitzenbrot@aol.com
Like the Beemer pics. The 2 bikes you show are the 2 I own and enjoy riding.
CTK