After almost a week of having to take the Ford Ranger to work I was ready to ride. Friday evening I exchanged the dark Iridium Visor on my Fulmer helmet for the clear one paving the way for a pre-dawn departure. I rolled the Vespa GTS out of the garage at 5:30 AM to a clear, star filled sky with the temperature a mild 53° F. After so much hot weather I forgot what that means on two-wheels.
Riding along through the agricultural areas where cornfields and woodlots that grow right to the edge of the roads meant I would need to manage the risk of encountering Whitetail deer. Since it was still dark and the deer would be moving at this time of day the only real option would be to slow down. I hadn’t gotten three miles until I had to stop to put on another shirt. I made a big mistake not wearing my insulated First Gear Kilimanjaro IV jacket. I looked at the weather report and saw that the temperature would hit the low 70’s. That did happen but not until almost 1 PM. Three layers under the vented jacket kept me functional if not comfortable. The bigger problem was my hands that remained numb or near numb until almost noon. For the first 105 miles the temperature never got above 55° F.
I was on the road 20 minutes before I saw another vehicle. The solitude of riding is magnified on the road near dawn. I’ve not tired of watching the sky begin to brighten and change color during those minutes before the sun breaches the horizon.
I missed the actual sunrise while crossing Nittany Mountain near Rebersburg; the heavily forested area masking any direct light from the low sun. Riding along I could feel my spirits begin to soar and an electric thrill moves through me just because I am riding. I keep asking myself why I didn’t start riding again a long time ago.
I enter Sugar Valley and turn east into the sun right over the road. Almost 15 miles of shielding my eyes from the direct sun with my left hand relaxing only when the road was shielded by trees. Without doing so the shadows were jet black and who knows what would be waiting for me. I was grateful when I finally turned north and on towards Pine Creek Gorge.
At Waterville I had to stop and warm up my hands. Even though I was wearing windproof and insulated gloves they were not heavy enough to do the jog. I know better than to head out unprepared but I allowed myself to be lulled by the idea that it was summer.
About 20 minutes in the sun with a cup of hot chocolate cheered my spirits and thawed my hands enough to continue on towards my next mistake.
When I can’t ride I look at maps and imagine riding. My route this morning was to follow PA 44 to PA 414 along Pine Creek into Pennsylvania’s Grand Canyon – the Pine Creek Gorge. A mental mix-up of the map in my head has me follow PA 44 up onto the mountain top rather than remain along the creek and take me far West of my objective. To make matters worse the state has kindly tarred and chipped the road on top of the mountain treating me to almost 25 miles of gravel and 25 MPH speeds.
Thank god the scenery was enjoyable and I stopped often to look out across the many vistas.
When the road finally cleared my mind moved from managing the changing surface to my stomach and breakfast. A big banner proclaiming “BREAKFAST” on the front porch of the Carter Camp Lodge was all I needed to stop for food, water, and warmth.
I could not have found a better and more relaxed place to eat and the gentleman cooking my breakfast took an interest in the Vespa. Not enough to dissuade him from his BMW R90 though.
And it did not keep him from making one great hearty breakfast either. The Carter Camp Lodge will be on my list of stops next time I pass this way.
The Vespa and I are moving down the road again around 11AM. I’ve been on the road for over 5 hours and have gone 105 miles. I’ve stopped over a dozen times to take pictures, had breakfast, adjusted clothing, and traveled slowly for deer and gravel. So I suppose I’m not doing too badly.
I hit the famous US Route 6 at Galeton and decide it’s time to head home without back tracking to the canyon or seeing the sights. With another 120 miles ahead of me I crank the throttle and cruise along.
My plan was to head to Wellsboro and south on PA 287 and on home. Postcard weather and fine roads through some of the prettiest places in the state promised a fine ride until the scooter and my brain conspired against me. First I noticed the exhaust sounded louder than normal. A quick check of the infamous Vespa GTS exhaust system gasket confirmed that it was beginning to fail. Luckily I made it home before it blew out. The scooter is now with the dealer for a new gasket that is part of a manufacturer recall. During the trip home though I began to wonder if the kind of riding I have been doing is too much for the scooter, if I should really be riding something bigger, more powerful, more durable. All this while cruising along comfortably at 60 MPH on a machine that has proven to be nothing short of exceptional.
But my mind wanders to the fact that I didn’t pass a scooter all day or a motorcycle under 1000cc’s. Those thoughts pass quickly though as I absorb the scenery and amazing roads that I have to ride on.
Lovely ride, and exceptional pictures.
I have the moto amore bronze bearing which I like because, as I understand it,the recall doesn’t eliminate the graphite bearing which tends to fail. Oh, and I’ve been wrestling with a failed valve in the evaporative collection system which I junked in its entirety… that’s next on your list! You Vespa madman you!
Hi Steve,
Wow! Your summers are almost as cold as our winters! Glad to read that you’re getting out there and enjoying it.
Incidently – I know what you mean about maps. I think if I was ever trapped somewhere and someone gave me an atlas, I could just dream away hour after hour thinking about countries, borders, roads and landscapes!
Cheers,
M
conchscooter: The good thing about the failure was that it seems to be slow and gives you ample warning. Riding near home would allow a rider to get it to the dealer. If I were 500 miles from home it would be a problem though. Would probably be stuck at a non-Vespa dealer having something Fed Exed to make the repair.
The dealer told me some other electrical part was recalled as well and would be replaced at the same time. didn’t even ask what that was but will let you know when I pick it up. Maybe it has something to do with the failed valve??
michael: It is unusual for us to have temperatures in the 50s but it does happen. Dressed appropriately it is not a problem at all.
Maps! I’m with you. Stranded on a desert island give me an atlas!
Another excellent post, Steve. Love the photos. I’ve got to try a pre-dawn departure, next time I head out on a roadtrip. Maybe this weekend! Thanks for the idea…
Oh, and since Rose has the upgraded headpipe already, I kept the old gasket in there for her 3,000 mile service. It was undamaged, and looked like new. No problems now over 4,300 miles of mostly high-speed operation.
Ride well,
=gc=
It was the same doubt you have about whether or not upgrading from a scooter to something bigger that pushed me to buy my motorcycle. I had been driving motorcicles before, but had passed to a scooter 4 years ago…well, this year I bought a new Suzuki V-strom 650, and kept the scooter for city riding and commuting.
My “leisure” riding habits did not change. I still cruise around 60-80 km/h on beautiful roads, like I was doing before. But I know that if I need power, I have it. If I need to overake a big track, I can do it. I feel a lot safer on the v-strom than I feel on my smaller Honda Forza 250 cc…
Steve,
I would just love to have the kind of solitude you have on the scooter where you live. Here is St. Louis you just can’t find that kind of experience on our chaotic roads. One day I would like to move to a more rural area. My in-laws live in West Virginia and it is very scenic there with many beautiful vistas to explore. I would love that quite time alone just riding through and experiencing nature.
-Matt Hoefler
Hey Steve, looking at those photos makes me miss NC so much more! I haven’t really ridden at all since returning to FL, it’s so darn hot:(…..and flat.
Thanks for the comments and the votes on my blog. I posted the winners the other day. Of course I had to just do a collage for all the scooter shots and count that as one :).
Steve,
I so enjoy your blog. You encapsulate the scooter experience and I love experiencing the sunrise with you and your scooter.
Scoot on!!!
gary: I have the Vespa back from the shop with the upgraded exhaust parts and it is nice and quiet again. Not sure what the next ride will be.
I like the pre-dawn departures in part because it makes the riding day longer.
demonio: You raise an interesting point about having power in reserve. I am going to have to think about that for awhile….
matt: Seems like you ought to be able to ride away from the city and find some more reasonable places to ride? Either way be careful out there.
cody: Most people find the cold to be the limiting factor in riding. For me heat is the ride killer. Can’t imagine riding in the heat and humidity of Florida in the summer….
mj: Thanks for your kind words. I plan to see more sunrises on the scooter!
Steve, do yourself a favor and remove the exhaust, it’s only four screws, twisting it to come out, then push the gasket all the way in. They never do it right, and it happens again and again…
I had a friend come over yesterday with a damaged brake line from this, exactly as I had read in MV… No rear brake, coming fast in a toll booth, road full of bumps!
Steve,
Nice post, nice pictures.
Have you ever thought about a larger CC scoter? I ride a Burgman 650 (due to my larger than most size/weight). There are also 250cc, 400cc and 500cc scooters in many different brands.
Same wind, still shiftless, still good to great mpg.