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Across America and Back

October 28, 2015 by Scooter in the Sticks 30 Comments

Vespa marketing suggests an urban, hipster lifestyle.  But the Italian scooter is ready for a lot more — like a trip across America and back.

Mike Hermens and his Vespa GTS in VirginiaMeet Mike Hermens.  He’s riding his 2012 Vespa GTS300ie across America.  Like many who get a Vespa ideas seep in about adventure and glory.  Unlike most though, Mike is making it a reality.  I learned of his trip on the Modern Vespa forum and caught up to his blog, Single Cylinder Psyche, when he was making his way through Idaho and Montana after starting at the Golden Gate Bridge in California.

All the photos are Mike’s and he’s been kind enough to let me use them in this post about his trip.

Vespa GTS 300 scooter in IdahoIf you take some time to explore his blog you’ll find an eclectic collection of pictures and stories of his winding path across the United States with a dip into Canada.  There’s a lot of fodder for fantasy and some real world obstacles he’s dealt with that anyone considering such a ride should be aware of.

The Vespa sits along the road in Idaho (I think) and just whispers a siren song to ride.

Vespa in the Oregon desertAnyone riding across the country who’s decided to stay off the interstate highway system will be faced with some long, lonely miles.  And it calls for special preparation and planning to make sure you can take care on the road like this stretch across the Oregon desert.

Like extra fuel for the scooter.

shadow of a Vespa riderReading through Single Cylinder Psyche I can get swept up in the trip until I imagine I’m riding it myself, like a ghost rider, a shadow across the landscape.

Vespa parked outside a motel.Mike camps at times but seems most often he’s at some little motel in small town America — somewhere that lets him park his Vespa near the door or in front of the office.  The red glow of the place in this picture just sings out America.  We live in a unique country.

Vespa scooter being loaded onto a truckA recurring concern of riders I’ve spoken with, motorcycle or scooter, regarding long distance rides is the handling of breakdowns and how to survive on the road.  Mike had a tire blowout and a couple other small mechanical issues during the ride so far and has had some interesting luck due to the kindness of strangers.

Vespa scooter in MontanaThe United States is a big country.  Riding across and through on secondary roads makes it even bigger.  But you really get a taste of the place in ways that just aren’t possible any other way.  Looking at this photo of the Vespa at the Montana line just reminded me of the sort of endless experiences that await anyone taking the time to ride around America.

Nick's diner in VirginiaI can’t remember the last time I even heard of a liver sandwich let alone someone touting one in their advertising.  But that’s part of the joy of riding through small towns and villages.  This place, somewhere in Virginia or West Virginia, is not your typical franchise eating establishment.  As you move through Mike’s trip you find a wide array of unusual places.

Dinosaur sculptures in IowaFinding this sort of roadside art is something I expect to see on Fuzzygalore.com and not on a Vespa blog.  But Mike has an eye for scenes and sights that you just don’t see on postcards or travel blogs.

I want to see more of America myself.

Vespa scooter in a small town in West VirginiaIt’s hard to imagine getting more off the beaten path than with this scene in West Virgina.  Single Cylinder Psyche has a lot of views of nameless, out of the way places and people who make up a rich tapestry of experience.  As I read along with his trip I keep thinking of his first post on the road where he anticipates the miles ahead:
From Single Cylinder Psyche
Sept 8: On My Way
Published September 8, 2015

I slept almost not at all last night, up late and early with prep, and a busy mind kept me awake most of the time I was in bed. But now I’m in Fallon, Nevada. It’s late, I’m sleepy, so this will be short.

The Cliff’s Notes version is that I first rode to the Golden Gate Bridge (so it would really be coast-to-coast), then through the oven known as the Sacramento Valley (96 F today, rising to 108 on Thursday), into and out of the Tahoe Basin, and onto the desolation that is Nevada (not a judgement). In Fallon I met my friend of 45 years, Bob Clem, who is on a motorcycle trip of his own, counterclockwise around the western states. I’m typing this in the Best Western lobby so he can sleep in peace in our room.

Today’s ride was a bit surreal. After so much time spent in anticipation, I had a heightened sense of, “This is it.”

It takes time to cover land on a scooter. Time to think, reflect, observe, adjust and be at peace. I think this will be a good trip.

What a great perspective…

Mike Hermens and his Vespa GTS scooterMike is on his way west toward home in California.  He’s been to Maine and much to my regret passed within a mile of my office though we did not have a chance to meet in person.  He responded to a recent email where I asked about snow in the west that he’s moving a bit south in hopes of avoiding the white stuff.  So far the weather looks good in the pictures he’s posting.

So, if you’ve ever dreamed of a scooter ride across the country, or on a motorcycle and you have a couple months to spare to take the slow road, check out Single Cylinder Psyche.  You’ll have a different perspective on the backroads of America.

[optin-cat id=”8800″]

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Riding Anxiety

September 28, 2015 by Scooter in the Sticks 21 Comments

Vespa along the freeway in the morning

Have you ever stood along the road and wondered where you were going?  Or worse, why you even got on the scooter or motorcycle instead of staying at home.  It’s a rare but unsettling mental space to dwell.  A form of riding anxiety.

Not the sort related to thoughts on the inevitability of a crash or the fear that every car is about to make a left turn in front of you, but rather an intuitive anxiety that something’s not right.

A situation that’s best met head on by riding.

Vespa GTS scooter along Interstate 99

Cool air and an ominous sky sparked my fight or flight mechanism this morning as I rode toward the Allegheny plateau.

An uneasy feeling swelled in my gut this morning as I pushed the Vespa out of the garage.  The kind I would get at the dentist just before a syringe of Novocaine was pushed into a nerve cluster, or the sinking sense of doom in a dream where I suddenly realize I forgot to ever go to my college chemistry class.

It’s not a good way to begin a ride.

I had no destination in mind and wondered why I was standing in the driveway.

Vespa along a winding freeway

The road is dangerous.  

Every good rider knows this and takes actions to mitigate the risks — other vehicles, road surface irregularities, small and large mammals, physical detritus from careless drivers, weather and personal failures of judgment and technique.

Portrait of Vespa GTS scooter

Intelligent management can be applied, to some degree, to each of these potential problems.  But sometimes, for me at least, another kind of risk appears that I can only label as something between heightened intuition and irrational paranoia.  It’s between my ears and I can stop it from talking.

At the heart of riding anxiety are questions.  About me, about what I believe to be true, about what I fear.  It doesn’t happen often — perhaps three times in ten years — and each time a change in how I see the world.  A quickened acceptance of the world of the road — the risk and danger along with the joy and bliss.

Vespa GTS scooter on gravel road

Miles of gravel and rock.  Not the Vespa’s strong suit.  A last minute decision brought me to this place.  The last time I came through was twenty years ago.  It was wild then and remains so today.

prescribed burn area in Pennsylvania Game Lands

All morning intuition whispered something wasn’t right and grew with each passing mile.  Two vehicles passed me in this empty place and both times I wondered if the drivers weren’t serial killers or worse.  My eyes kept scanning the mirrors for their return while I made mental notes on off-road evasion techniques.

The trees and plants were burnt, spindly and drained.  I was reminded of an area farther north ravaged by a tornado.

I was awake and aware.

Vespa GTS scooter at a prescribed burn area

Much of the area I rode through was laid waste by prescribed burns — efforts by the Pennsylvania Game Commission to enhance wildlife habitat and reduce risk of wildfires.  The place looked desolate as if something bad happened here.  My thoughts would provide fodder for horror novels if I were so inclined.

I rode on.

Vespa GTS scooter on a rocky road

With the Vespa’s small wheels and limited suspension travel speeds are limited and even moderate speeds grow problematic with the sudden appearance of rocky stretches of roadbed.  Riding in rough conditions on a Vespa requires a little extra physical work, careful attention to the brakes and a thoughtful approach to balance and handling.

If you want to stay upright.

Steve Williams with Vespa GTS scooter along old forest road

Much of the ride was gloomy with the light levels low and the breeze creating odd sounds in the forest.  I couldn’t help but think of the way the Blair Witch Project touched some frightened place in so many people where a rustle of leaves could trigger a pounding heart or ears would hear a faint moan in the woods.

I stopped, parked the scooter, removed my ear plugs and listened for ghosts.

Working with the camera on a tripod and fiddling with the radio controlled shutter trigger worked its magic over my imagination much in the same way it does with my fear of heights — put the camera in front of me and all fear vanishes.  It’s what has allowed me to climb smokestacks and walk out along crane booms to make pictures — situations that would not be possible without the camera leading the way.

So a few pictures, a banana, and a drink of water, it dissolved the riding anxiety.

Vespa GTS scooter on gravel road

It’s been awhile (I think) since I’ve done much riding on gravel roads, particularly rough roads.  A few times I wished for the winter or knobby tires.  Or a dirt bike.  The Vespa can manage the gravel but it’s a slow slog.

For me at least.

Vespa GTS scooter in the forest

Every ride is different.  It’s part of what brings me back to the road over and over again.  And at some level I’m a different man each time.  Or so I like to believe.  On this ride I stepped into the gloom and let it wash over the scooter and I to see where it led.  I didn’t know where I was going when I left but a journey unfolded as the miles moved by.

Riding down off the Allegheny Front I reached a paved road and headed north toward home and a stop at the Pump State Cafe to make a few notes and wonder about the morning.

The anxiety — maybe it was the approaching supermoon or the lunar eclipse.  Perhaps the earth passed through an energy field that affected only myself and other sensitive people.  Or maybe it was nothing more than what Ebenezer Scrooge suggested, “You may be an undigested bit of beef, a blot of mustard, a crumb of cheese, a fragment of underdone potato.  There’s more of gravy than of grave about you, whatever you are!”

Riding anxiety?  Bah, Humbug!

 

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God Questions

September 20, 2015 by Scooter in the Sticks 25 Comments

winding road in central PennsylvaniaThis past weekend I was on the road, a winding trail through the world and my head.

Sitting in the garden writing this blog post I see a young couple walking down the road. I can see them talking, their gait is relaxed, their bodies close, and I wonder about them. Why are they together? Why are they walking past now? Why do they seem so happy? Someone once told me that these sorts of why questions are God questions — complicated, difficult and ultimately beyond our feeble human mind’s ability to adequately answer.

For the past few days I’ve been occupied by why questions, especially as they relate to riding and life.

Why am I on the road?

I’ve thought about this question many times. I know exactly where the road leads and I’ve been on it before. And yet I’ve never really been on it and have no idea what’s ahead. My riding is filled with paths and trails through field and forest — literally and figuratively.

Vespa GTS scooter in the early morning lightThe sun rises swiftly and for a short time there is a cosmic quality to the world — a reminder that we are members of a collection of planets spinning around a star and causing me to ask, “Why am I here?”

It’s easy to dismiss the silent conversation as the bored noise of someone with too little to really worry about. Or worse.

Paul Ruby at Marge's RestaurantPaul Ruby is a master at finding odd places and things. Part of me was intrigued by this eating establishment and a larger part was grateful it was closed.

I’ve know Paul for twenty years having first met him at a large format photography workshop he was teaching. Since then he has led me through a wide range of ideas and places. He, among others, influenced my return to graduate school in art and my purchase of a Vespa. He is responsible for some of the turns in my life.

Why did our paths cross?

Vespa at the top of Jacks MountainOn a promontory with the world swept before me it’s tempting to try to contain my reaction to the visual narrative — lovely sky, pretty valley, magnificent Vespa scooter. But a persistent whisper of a thought keeps hinting I should be taking more notice.

Why can’t you see?

I climb to a higher point in the rocks to make another photograph of the view from Jacks Mountain and think of breakfast.

Motorcycle riders in Mount Union, PennsylvaniaPaul and I have a late breakfast at the Northside Restaurant in Mount Union, Pennsylvania. It’s a quaint local establishment with predictable cuisine. We met two couples on motorcycles who were wandering much like Paul and I were and we shared a few words. When we emerged after breakfast they were preparing to leave. I almost never photograph other riders, especially strangers but this time something compelled me to ask.

Why did I make this photograph?

Vespa GTS scooterI never planned to love a Vespa. It just happened. When I began riding in 2005 by sights were firmly fixed on a Triumph when fate intervened in the way of a test ride on a Vespa ET4 and my fate was sealed. Since drinking the scooter Kool-Aid

I’ve piled up thousands of miles on motorcycles — eight BMWs, six Triumphs, two Ducatis, 2 Piaggio MP3s and one URAL rig. Certainly enough time and experience to decide what motorcycle I should be riding.

And still I dream the Vespa dream.

Why has the Vespa taken up residence in my life?

Scooters at Pulpit Rocks in Huntingdon, PAOther than sleeping, riding is the most relaxing thing I do. It works on the mind, the body and a restless spirit. It delivers much and costs little. I’ve wanted to ride a motorcycle since I was a kid and aside from time on other people’s machines I suffered from the “you’ll shoot your eye out” defense from mother and father.

Traveling home from breakfast along the Old Alexandria Pike I had to stop one more time at Pulpit Rocks. The place has mystery though I’m not sure why. An extended visit may provide answers somewhere in the future. Riding reveals things just when I start to believe there’s nothing left.

Why does riding resonate so loudly?

Vespa GTS scooter on rural roadThe road is endless but not my ride. I recognize it when I’m on the scooter and when I think about my path in the world.

I’ve been traveling for six decades and question how little I’ve learned or done. Decisions made but without action, or oaths taken without change. Riding strips away much of the selfishly indulged denial and doubt that can wreck dreams and leave a person face-to-face with decisions at the forks in the road.

Why am I afraid to choose?

Another ride and I find more questions than answers.  Perhaps best just to let them go…

 

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Scooter Riding Daughter

September 6, 2015 by Scooter in the Sticks 25 Comments

Lone tree in a foggy landscapeMy scooter riding daughter got her first taste of fog this morning (I think) as we headed south to breakfast.  I offered a few tips, watch traffic approaching from behind, clear your visor, and pay attention to everything, but I think she already deduced the risk.

No matter how often I look out across fog shrouded fields there’s a preternatural feeling that creeps into my bones, as if I’m a character in Game of Thrones and a direwolf will emerge from the mist.

I wish I could hold onto those flights of imagination.  Maybe I should write a book.

foggy roadTraffic was light to non-existent, at least until we got to the major east-west artery US Route 22 at Waterstreet.  Our scooters, Aleta on her Yamaha Vino and me on the Vespa, wandered along slowly, ready for whatever might emerge.

Deer warning sign on a foggy roadDeer remain my single biggest concern since the only way to effectively manage that risk is to ride slow enough that if you see one you can evade and if you collide the impact is not catastrophic.  Each mile I travel not seeing a deer is one mile closer to seeing one.  Or at least that’s how my brain thinks about it.

The same logic applies to lottery tickets — each loser is one closer to a winner.  Bullshit with lottery tickets and with deer.

Aleta on a scooter rideA quick portrait during an early stop.  Rider, gear, scooters, fog and a gravel road.  What more do you need for a good picture?

wooded area along old Alexandria PikeThe Vino’s 125cc engine is fine for most secondary roads but works hard to maintain 55mph so I try to find alternative routes to destinations.  The old Huntingdon, Cambria and Indiana turnpike route still exists though little used now compared to the late 1800s.  Another of the fine scenic byways in south central Pennsylvania.

Pulpit RocksThe old turnpike route took us past Pulpit Rocks, a notable geologic feature and now a National Historic Landmark.  I had never been through here before and plan to return to explore the rocks with a camera.

Standing Stone Coffee CompanyBy the time we got to the Standing Stone Coffee Company in Huntingdon, Pennsylvania is was ready for something substantial for breakfast.  This cafe is a gem in this neck of the woods and the Standing Stone Florentine breakfast sandwich was outstanding.

Everything tastes better after a long ride.

Aleta at Standing Stone Coffee Company cafeEveryone notices something different on a ride or in life.  I saw two motorcycles parked across the street.  Aleta noticed free WI-FI.  As things wrapped up we had a discussion on the next leg of the ride.  She wanted to ride onto Altoona to visit her grandparents but I needed to head home.  Riding to Altoona would mean Aleta would have nearly 90 miles of riding ahead — alone on unfamiliar roads.

sign for soda at flea marketTen miles down the road we stopped at a flea market, the last stop before I turned northward toward home with Aleta joining me.  Both of us were feeling the pressure of the clock as the day wore on.

The last 30 miles were under a bright sun and blue skies with temperatures rising toward the mid-80s.  Summer is fading in the rear view mirror and my preferred riding season is approaching. Passed my oldest daughter on the way into Boalsburg as she was running up the road but my attention was on a passing truck and a line of parked cars.  Found out later that she was on her first run since giving birth to granddaughter Emma.

Maybe someday Hannah will give up the running shoes for a Vespa.

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Photography Lessons

September 6, 2015 by Scooter in the Sticks 12 Comments

Camera pointed at a personKim is the creative fire in our home, the one who operates on a different perceptual plane.  When it comes to photography she is way out ahead while I just keep doing the same things over and over.  Last night she taught me another lesson.

Her pedigree is different than mine.  She’s been a professional science writer, published fiction writer and relentless photographer.  I remember a phone message on her answering machine from an editor informing her that a short story had been selected for their magazine award (cash) along with “I had to smoke a cigarette after I read your story.”

I don’t get that kind of reaction to anything I write.

After earning a living with a camera since the 1970s you would think I have things covered in that area but I’m still receiving photography lessons from Kim.  I should add she’s also responsible for dreaming up the title of this blog — Scooter in the Sticks — and just recently devised the road icon in my logo.

self portrait of Steve WilliamsLast night I was looking at a series of images she made using an effects feature on her Canon G16 camera.  Being a creature of habit and perhaps a photographic snob I only use manual settings on my own camera — in this case a Canon G15.  Real photographers don’t rely on tricks just like real motorcycle and scooter riders never trailer their machines to destinations.  It’s that sort of thinking that keeps me trapped rather than free.

Kim set me free (again) last night.

I never knew my camera had effect settings, and if I did I probably wouldn’t have looked at them.  But looking at her series of images set fire to my limited photographic imagination.  Sitting in the chair I tinkered with the Toy Camera setting to make this self portrait.

Vespa GTS scooter on rural roadIt was murky outside this morning as I departed to run a few errands.  Experimenting further with the Toy Camera setting I realized it works to deepen the emotional feel of an already emotionally charged weather event.  To this point, the only time I saw something like this was with images made using Instagram on my iPhone.

portrait of booted feet in fall colored leavesAutumn is not far off now and I can’t recall what happened to summer.  Leaves are already changing colors and falling at my feet.  The days are moving swiftly and if I blink I fear snow will be falling.

self portrait of Steve WilliamsThroughout the morning I continued to play with the Toy Camera setting.  It won’t work for every situation but for certain subjects and intentions it is the right tool for the job.  That’s a big revelation for someone like me who tends to use the same tool for everything.

A gift from a loving wife for which I’ve not devised the proper thank you.

Vespa GTS scooter in a gravel pitThere are days when the desire to ride far and fast is strong.  Especially when the sun is not beating on my back and the world looks strange.  Imagination percolates and I wonder about elves and zombies.  With either, a Vespa is what you want to be riding.

American flag on the porch of Cafe LemontThe view from breakfast on the porch of Cafe Lemont in Lemont, Pennsylvania.  Chili and sourdough bread while watching the world go by and a few minutes to do nothing at all.  I’m still learning how to let go of everything without feeling guilty or keep busy.  Hard to slow down with those thoughts in your head.

Vespa GTS scooter and tin manWhen you’re in a hurry you miss the details — of the road and your life.  Slowing down seems at odds with everything our culture tells us.  More, more, more…

Vespa GTS scooter along a country roadI’ve been reading “The Effortless Life” by Leo Babauta, author of the blog Zen Habits.  He suggests it’s helpful if you’ve ever wrestled with:

  • frustration
  • struggle
  • distraction
  • anger
  • impatience
  • unhappiness
  • relationships
  • goals
  • work
  • being present

This book seems to have been written for me…

Each time I stop to make a picture it’s can seem like a lesson in living.  Or changing.  If only to practice focusing and being less distracted.  Or just being present for a few moments.

Vespa GTS scooter on the horizon with treesI’ve been smitten by the Toy Camera setting for the moment as life takes on a cinematic quality.  Not sure where it will go but I know it doesn’t matter.  One of the photography lessons I’ve learned from Kim is that there are no rules, no expectations, and I can do whatever I want.

That’s a good place to be when visually things look as if you’re riding toward an apocalypse…

Vespa GTS scooter at Gemelli's BakeryOne last stop to pick up a loaf of rustica italian bread at gemelli bakery in State College, Pennsylvania.

I’ve not plumbed the depth of the Toy Camera feature or looked at all the other choices.  Who knows where these photography lessons will go next.

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